COMMERCIAL GROWTH OF PEPPERS 235 



nished by Mr. Allan Knapp, of Anaheim, who is widely acquainted 

 with local experience in the pepper district of Orange county, which 

 is credited with a product of about a thousand tons of dried pep- 

 pers a year. 



Seed. It is exceedingly important to have a good type of 

 plant, and this can be secured by selecting pods in the field, to 

 furnish seed for the following year, from low bushy vines full of 

 pods of medium length. A tall bush will not produce as many pods 

 and it is more liable to be broken by strong winds when loaded with 

 fruit. Besides the end of the pods from a low plant will rest on 

 the ground, and in that position they will prop up the branches, 

 providing you keep crowding a little earth to the row at each cul- 

 tivation, as will be described later. 



When these seed pods are gathered put them on a string and 

 hang up to dry against the south end of a building. Do not put 

 them into the evaporator when hotter than 110 to 115. They may 

 stand more heat, but perhaps only 50% of the seed may germinate 

 quickly, and the other half may delay a week longer than those 

 dried in the sun; neither will it make so strong a plant. 



Growing Seedlings. Select a location for the seed-bed where 

 good drainage may be had. Sandy soil is best, but not so poor 

 that it contains no plant food to nourish the young plant. Plow 

 and level the plot, harrowing or raking with a hand rake, as only 

 a small piece of land is used; sow seed about March 15 in rows 

 three inches apart, covering one-quarter of an inch. On this spread 

 one-quarter inch with sand. Start your seed beside a large tree, if 

 you have one, and you will have fair success. The tree will drain 

 your land. /If the young plants begin to die by "damping off," 

 take a trowel and dig out the affected spots and throw them away. 

 The plants should have five or six leaves on before transplanting 

 commences. Wet the soil of the seed-bed thoroughly before lifting 

 the plants, as the roots are damaged less. 



Field Planting. Plow the field deeply early in the winter and 

 keep down weeds by shallow cultivation until planting time, when 

 danger of frost is past. The chile plant is very sensitive to cold. 

 May 1 is a good time for planting. Mark field off in rows 4^ 

 feet apart and set 2^2 feet apart in rows. Should the weather be 

 dry and irrigation necessary plow a furrow beside each mark and 

 run water in these furrows before and after planting, and if the 

 weather be very hot two or three irrigations may be necessary to 

 start plants. Always allow 24 hours after irrigating before plants 

 are set, unless soil is very sandy. Then work may commence sooner. 



When through with the irrigation furrows, plow back and cul- 

 tivate the land until level as before. Keep soil in good growing 

 condition always. When plants are 12 to 15 inches high use a 

 ridger (such as is used in raising levees for irrigation checks) with 

 plenty of space open behind and straddle each row, thus drawing 

 the earth to each side of plant and giving it support. Water may 



