WAYS WITH RHUBARB 257 



Planting. Before planting either in field or garden the soil 

 should be heavily manured and deeply turned in the fall so as to 

 get the full benefit of the winter rains. Transplanting the old sum- 

 mer varieties should be done when the plant is dormant, the soil in 

 good working condition and warmth enough for growth antici- 

 pated. The date will, of course, vary in different localities, but 

 February will usually be satisfactory for the summer growers. 



It is best to reset the eyes taken off, as soon as a rain has 

 moistened the ground late in the fall, according to J. B. Mendonca, 

 a large rhubarb grower of Alameda county. This gives them the 

 benefit of all the rest of the rains and makes them ready for early 

 growth in spring. 



F. H. Williams, also of Alameda county, in getting sets for 

 replanting, does not dig the roots out, but plows the dirt away 

 from each side of the plant and cuts off the excess eyes with a 

 sharp spade. After this the dirt is plowed back, so the old roots, 

 undisturbed, may send out new feeders into the soft ground with- 

 out the shock of resetting. 



The soil must not be too wet at transplanting or the roots may 

 rot ; good warmth and moisture are favorable. The introduction of 

 winter-growing varieties has modified transplanting practice. They 

 are practically evergreen and active except for a short dormancy 

 in the late summer, and, though capable of transplanting by cut- 

 ting back the leaves all through the rainy season, are usually moved 

 to best advantage from April to June, the latter period being avail- 

 able on irrigated land. A June planting of the winter varieties may 

 yield a good pulling of leaves by Thanksgiving. 



There are different ways of planting out, each with its own 

 advocates. Roots set four feet apart each way give good oppor- 

 tunity for cultivation both ways ; but some give more room by lay- 

 ing off in six feet rows with the plants four feet apart in the row. 

 Others plant in the garden, placing the plants two feet apart, if 

 only one row is planted, and in four feet rows with the plants three 

 feet apart if there are to be several rows. On good, strong deep 

 soils, it is well to give plenty of room, for large growth of leaves 

 is desired to impart vigor to the roots. Distance depends somewhat 

 upon the variety, but nearly all growers aim at very large leaf 

 stems, and these require ample space. 



J. B. Wagoner, however, in growing winter varieties, advocates 

 close planting. He says: 



If you want a rhubarb crop, you must feed the plants with nitrogen. If 

 you feed them well, you may let the roots enlarge as much as they will, the 

 new eyes will produce the stalks. Let the root get big the bigger the better. 

 Set your plants close together l l / 2 feet apart in rows 4j4 feet apart, 6000 

 per acre and give them plant food. When they are crowded close together, 

 they occupy less land, they send up straight stalks that pack well, the leaves 

 shade the stalks from sunburn, they shade the ground reducing evaporation, 

 and, hence, irrigation, the soil does not bake and reflect the summer heat up 

 to the stalks. The thickness of the leaves shades the stalks so they color well 

 up to the end. When frost comes, the leaves protect the stalk again. 



