HOW TO START TOMATO PLANTS 



267 



underflow splendid tomatoes can be grown without irrigation all 

 through the local frost-free period. 



Growing Plants for the Garden. Tomato plants may be grown 

 from stem cuttings as described in Chapter XI, but they are usually 

 grown from seed and the best plants are those produced with mod- 

 erate heat. They need protection from cold rather than forcing 

 heat, as our day temperatures from February onward are almost 

 always adequate. For early starting of plants some bottom heat 

 is often desirable and can be profitably used if care is taken for 

 free admission of air and subsequent hardening of the plants by 

 later growth under protection but at lower temperatures. The 

 considerations urged in the chapter on propagation for the hand- 

 ling of seeds and seedlings have special applicability to the growth 

 of tomato plants. For the home garden there is perhaps no better 

 way of growing plants than that of Ira W. Adams, as follows : 



Plant the seed about the middle of February in a small box two inches 

 in depth and keep in the house by a south window in a moderately warm 

 room. On warm, sunny days, put them outdoors, and let them remain out 

 day and night whenever the weather is warm enough ; in this way they will 

 make stocky plants and be much hardier than if raised altogether in the 

 house. The soil should be rich and mellow, and always kept a little moist. 

 When the plants appear, thin out to an inch apart. As soon as the plants 

 begin to crowd each other, transplant to another box, about four inches in 

 depth and give them a space of four inches. By the time they crowd each 

 other again they can be transplanted outdoors on the south side of the house 

 or barn into a good-sized bed of rich soil. Here they can remain until they 

 get to be large, strong, hardy plants, with very large, fibrous roots. When 

 all danger of frost is over, take a sharp spade and cut out a square of dirt 

 with each plant, put into rows six feet apart, with the plants the same dis- 

 tance in the row. Plants can be transplanted in this way when over a foot 

 high and in blossom. By transplanting them just at night, or on a cloudy 

 day, they will hardly ever show a wilted leaf. 



Another way to secure large plants for garden planting is to 

 start them in a seed-box, in the house, or with bottom heat as de- 

 scribed in the chapter on propagation, and then transplant when 

 small, into growing cases made of discarded fruit cans. Select 

 those of similar size, throw them on a burning brush pile for a few 

 minutes, when the tops and bottoms will drop out, and the seams 

 on the sides will open, leaving a smooth tin shell. Tie a string 

 around each to keep it from spreading. Set them in a box or frame 

 made of four boards. Fill the cans and the spaces between them 

 with good friable soil, set a small plant in the center of each shell, 

 sprinkle well and keep moist. When the plants are well grown 

 they may be transplanted in the garden. Take the cans carefully 

 out of the frames, grasping the cans firmly to prevent the plants 

 and soil slipping out ; set them in a box or wheelbarrow and move 

 them where wanted. Prepare the soil by working in a shovelful of 

 well-rotted manure where a plant is to stand, but this is not re- 

 quired if the soil is rich. Dig a hole deep enough to set the upper 

 rim of the can level with the ground, cut the string and fill up and 



