270 CALIFORNIA VEGETABLES 



For late planting especially, and in light soils, it is desirable 

 to set the plants quite deeply in the soil. The rule with some grow- 

 ers is to set the plant half the length of the stem deeper than it 

 stood in the seed-bed and in light, dry interior soils the stem has 

 been entirely buried with good results. Depth of planting depends 

 upon the character of the soil and its content of moisture. Where 

 moisture is to be abundant it is better to have the roots nearer the 

 surface. 



Distance depends upon variety. The usual distance is six feet 

 apart each way or four by six for the standard growers/ but some 

 plant more widely, and dwarf varieties are set at intervals of 

 four feet. 



Summer Treatment. Very seldom is any effort made even in 

 garden culture to support the plant above the earth surface. As the 

 crop is largely grown without irrigation or with sub-irrigation by 

 seepage from ditches, the earth surface is always warm and dry, 

 and rot is almost unknown. The soil should be cultivated as long 

 as it can be done without injury to the prostrate plants, and hoeing 

 to prevent baking of the soil around the stem should be faithfully 

 done as long as practicable. Two or three hoeings and four or 

 five cultivations are usually given. Well-grown plants on rich, moist 

 soils almost cover the surface even when given the widest distances. 



It is commonly believed that excessive growth of foliage re- 

 tards ripening and reduces fruitage. Whenever this occurs, as on 

 very rich and moist interior soils, free cutting back of the plants 

 with a scythe, is practiced with good results. Summer pruning of 

 over-rank garden plants is also desirable. 



Irrigation. As already stated, the tomato abhors dry soil, and 

 in some situations irrigation is essential. Care must be had against 

 over-irrigation, especially in the coast region, where proper plant- 

 ing and cultivation will give satisfactory results with the natural 

 moisture. It must be remembered that it is not desirable to get a 

 large vine-growth but much fruit on a relatively small plant. Not 

 only does excessive watering during the early growth of the plant 

 cause dropping of blossoms and promote foliage at the expense of 

 fruit, but too much water after fruit is set is apt to give a tomato 

 which slices up into cart-wheels instead of firm and solid discs of 

 flesh. Most growers cultivate too slackly, especially when irriga- 

 tion water is used. 



Irrigation by flooding is sometimes successfully practiced, but 

 application of water which does not wet the surface beneath the 

 plants is preferred. 



Tomatoes With Much Work and Water. Quite a departure 

 in all respects from general California methods are those of Mr. 

 S. Dalforno, of Merced county, who shipped 3500 20-pound boxes 

 of tomatoes in 1916 from 14,000 plants on his adobe soil. The 

 plants were transplanted in mid-February from hot-beds to cold- 

 frames, being set an inch deeper than they were in the hot-bed, but 



