THE ESSIQUIBO. 6G1 



though the scenery is of that enchanting character wliich, as 

 the entluisiastic Watcrton describes it, made his sonl oveillow 

 with joy, and roam in fancy through fairy-land, yet, as it is 

 through an ahnost uninliahited country, with lunnerous rapids 

 and torrents, woods to be traversed, and mountains to ho 

 climbed, the difficulties are not contemptible. 



" To surmount these obstacles to navigation," say Mr. 

 Brett, " it is necessary in some places to cany or haul the 

 canoe overland at the sides of the fall. At others, advantage 

 is taken of the eddies which are found at the base, and huge 

 rocks that intercept the stream. The Indians pass from rock 

 to rock by leaping, wading, or swinnning, and, by means of a 

 hawser, haul the boat throuoh the rushino; water from one 

 resting-point to another, the steersman keeping his seat, and — 

 sometimes lashed to it — striving with his large paddle to guide 

 in some deofree her course. The roar of the Avater dashinic 

 and foaming against the surrounding rocks renders this opera- 

 tion as excitino; as it is difficult. Still more excitini>' and 

 difficult is the task of descending these rapids. The safety 

 of all then depends on their perfect steadiness, and on the 

 bowman and steersman actino- in concert, and Avith instant 

 decision. The canoe is kept in the very centre of the current, 

 one of her best liands kneeling with quick eye and ready 

 paddles in the boAV, and the rest of the crcAV exerting their 

 strength to give her headway. Darting swiftly along, she 

 arrives at the head of the fall, and boundinu" downward, 

 shoots into the surf below it, dashing it u\) on either side, and 

 leaving her crew alone visible. If all be well, rising above 

 the foam, she obeys the guiding paddles in stem and stern, and 

 dances over the tumbling waves, while her excited crew exult 

 at their success. Whoh,' families, however, even r)f Indians, 



