CAITHNESS COTTARS 



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town is all new-streeted and new- 41 

 roaded. No dirty water runs along ^ 

 them now. There are three policemen to keep down 

 dunghills. We have three new churches, two new 

 banks, and a gaswork. There is a fine statue of Sir 

 John Sinclair in front of the Moderate Kirk, alias 

 the Establishment. We have a new hotel, a new 

 court-house, and new shops. Whole rows of new 

 houses have been built. We have a steamer to Orkney, 

 a steamer to Leith, and a din about a railway.* In 

 fact, nearly everything has been changed, except the 

 fields round the town. These remain very much the 

 same, being fenced with flagstones set on end. When 

 I came first to the county, many of the poor people 

 never saw the sun until they came out and sat down at 

 the ends of their cots. But now, there are very few 

 houses without windows to be seen, though there are as 

 many swine as ever. Poor cottars are now dressed like 



The railway has smoe been made. 

 15 



