TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTES — FENGWANSHAN. 163 



After proceeding up the Sicawei Creek about a mile we were obliged to anchor for the night 

 on account of the ebb having made. At midnight we were again moving. In the morning 

 it was delightful to notice the clear green water of the creek as compared with the tawny 

 flow of the muddy Whangpoo. 



We passed under picturesque bridges and by peaceful hamlets ; rafts on the one side, 

 and women at the village steps washing their rice : boats laden with gourds and vegetables ; 

 villagers bartering with the fishermen for their most recent catch ; splendid ducks diving 

 and paddling in the clear stream. It may, perchance, be that in later years some of us will 

 recall these scenes with pleasure " Hcec olim meminisse juvabity Pursuing our way we come 

 to a broken bridge, about three miles from the hills, which we hastily sketch — hastily 

 because the lowdah summarily went about ship — the debris of broken stones forming a bar 

 to further progress by the intended route. Soon after our arrival at the foot of the hills, 

 richly clothed with vegetation, we commenced our search for ferns. 



A word or two here may be of interest to those unacquainted with this locality and its 

 group of eight hills — doubtless in years far back islands in the sea, the trees and vegetation 

 on whose slopes afford a fresh and grateful change after the dull monotony of the level 

 country round Shanghai. 



While wending one's way through the creeks, frequently over-arched with trees — soft 

 shadows playing on the placid stream — one cannot but notice the little silvery fish gleaming 

 as they rise up to catch the insects ; and the water-snakes with their glittering beady eyes in 

 heads erect, slowly wriggling their way from one weedy tuft to another. 



To many it might be a novel spectacle to watch the fishing with cormorants. These 

 birds not only dive but really fly under water in pursuit of their prey soon reappearing after 

 a successful quest. In a very short space of time these hungry birds had scoured the whole 

 of that part of the stream. What with such constant diligence on the part of the fishermen 

 with birds, to say nothing of nets, traps and night-lines, in the management of which the 

 natives are such adepts, one marvels at there being any fish left I 



A few words, now we are at Fengwanshan, descriptive of the Catholic Mission, 

 situated a little more than half-way up the highest hill, may not be out of place. The ascent 

 is rendered less tiring by a succession of steps at intervals ; three steps, an incline, and so 

 on ; then four steps and a longer incline, till the Mission court-yard — a terrace proper — is 

 reached. The way to the building is one long serpentine avenue. Some of the trees are 

 very beautiful and thickly leaved. The piercing rays of the August sun were almost 

 excluded by the over-hanging verdant boughs. Beneath, on the left hand, the gully was 

 clothed with bamboos and flowering shrubs, and from amongst these issued a kind-looking, 

 cheerful priest who greeted us cordially and conducted us to an ante-chapel with the 

 injunction to rest whilst he ordered refreshments. The water he offered us was deliciously 

 refreshing, soft and cooling although not iced — for of ice there was no need. The good 

 Pere showed us over the chapel, but beyond this Madame was not permitted to go, the 

 regulations forbidding it. "Pardon ! il est defendu attx daines d'y entrer,'" ejaculated the priest. 

 We rejoined that we quite understood the restriction. The cool breeze coming through the 

 open window at this altitude was most enjoyable and one had but little inclination to move 

 from the spot. Monsieur followed his guide who showed him all over the three-storeyed 



