should be previously slotted with \ slots 

 nearly the whole length of it, so as to 

 correspond with the spaces above the 

 tin separators of the lower side cases, 

 and at the bottom of the upper side- 

 cases, for passage for the bees from the 

 brood chamber to the side boxes. Slip 

 number 13 down, \ inch below the top 

 of the hive, and fasten by nailing little 

 i inch square blocks below it in the 

 mortice. Nail number 3 to the outside 

 of the hive, front and rear, \ inch from 

 the top for the cap to rest on, and then 

 nail number 4 to the ends of number 3 

 and the hive. Nail number 6 to the 

 ends of number 5 for the cap, getting it 

 square : then nail number 7 on the top, 

 projecting equally on all sides, for the 

 top to the cap. Put on number 28, and 

 turn it down nicely all around, and you 

 have a nice tin-roof, which should be 

 painted white, so as not to draw the 

 heat. The top can be made of narrow 

 strips, just as well as from a whole 

 board. 



Now for the bottom board which is 

 number 8 and is to have number 9 

 nailed to each end, so as to project 5 

 inches in front and their projection is 

 to be beveled for the alighting board, 



Two- box Prize Case. 



number 10, so as to make easy access 

 for the bees to the hive. Now the hive 

 is complete, except the frames and sur- 

 plus arrangement. Numbers 20, 21 and 

 22 are for the frames (9 in number) 

 which should be nailed together, so as 

 to make them just lOfxlOf inside meas- 

 ure. For comb guides we use a strip of 

 wax run on by means of a straight edge, 

 as has been stated in the Journal 

 several times. Numbers 26 and 27 are 

 for the prize boxes, 30 in number. 

 Number 26 is to be nailed to ends of 

 number 27, so as to project \ at each 

 side. Tin tacks (4 in number) are to be 

 driven into the edges of number 27, \ 

 inch from the outside, so that when a 

 5x6 glass is dropped in, the tins are 

 bent down and all is secured. If you 

 never saw a prize box perhaps you bet- 

 ter send to the Journl office for a sam- 

 ple, as it costs but little. Numbers 23, 

 24 and 25 are for 15 two-box cases (see 

 cut) and are to be nailed together so as 

 to be 10£x6 5-16 inside measure. Num- 

 ber 29 are tin separators and are to be 

 nailed one on each case, so as to be 

 21-32 of an inch from the bottom and 



the top of the cases. Number 24 is to 

 be slotted out \ inch, on each side, to 

 give entrance to the bees. Now we 

 will suppose the hive is made, sitting 

 on the bottom board, with the frames 

 all in their proper place and boxes all in 

 the cases ; take number 17 and lay them 

 on each side of the hive, and on the top 

 of the ends of the top bar of the frames, 

 for the cases to rest on, and then put 7 

 cases on them. Now hang in 2 cases 

 on number 12 at the side, and you can 

 see if your slots come in the right place, 

 that are cut in number 13. We forgot 

 to say that in each case on top, 2 nails 

 are to be driven so as to project i inch. 

 They are to be driven close to the side 

 the tin is nailed on, and the tin is to be 

 away from the slotted division board. 

 Now put 2 more cases on the top of the 

 lower ones, or on the nails, the nails 

 are to keep the cases from crushing 

 bees, and as the cases are to be inter- 

 changeable the nails must be on all of 

 them. Set cases in the other side also 

 and place the tins, numbered 30, 

 between the side and top cases, resting 

 their lower edges on the top of the 

 hive. 



This is to prevent the bees from 

 bridging the combs, at the bottom of 

 the top bars, and the top of the side 

 boxes. Now take number 14, and fit it 

 so that it will go down to within f of 

 the bottom of the hive, and rest on 

 number 12. Nail number 15 on to it in 

 the center, so as to keep it from warp- 

 ing and slip it between the side cases 

 and the end of hive. Then push num- 

 ber 16 (which are for keys) between 

 number 15 and the end of the hive, and 

 all is keyed up tight, so that the boxes 

 and everything comes just where it 

 should. If you wish but 2 cases at each 

 side, these keys work the other way to 

 just as good advantage. Take number 

 18 and nail the little cleats, number 19, 

 at each end or within 2 inches of each 

 end, so that they will project 1-16 at 

 each side, and set them up at sides of 

 the top cases. As the cleats are a little 

 longer than the board is wide, the 

 attraction of gravitation will always 

 keep them in place. 



If I have made no mistake your hive 

 is now complete and you will probably 

 consider it "an expensive rigging," as 

 did Novice, but I will say that in 1877 I 

 secured from 3 old colonies in the spring T 

 in just such hives, 896 lbs. of box honey. 

 One giving 309 lbs.; another 301 lbs. and 

 the third 286 lbs. The average yield of 

 what hives of this kind I had in use in 

 1877 was more than 200 lbs. of box 

 honey per colony. 



I believe this yield has never been 

 exceeded by any hive in existence. I 



