SECRETARY'S REPORT. 151 



The readers of Goethe's Favist will remember Auerbacli's 

 cellar as one of the strange scenes of that wonderful book, 

 where Mephistopheles takes Faust to join a company of rollick- 

 ing fellows. It is a noted place of resort for public entertain- 

 ment, and is really one of the historical spots of Germany. 

 We were, no doubt, in the very vault where both Dr. Faust 

 and Goethe had caroused. There are two very old paintings 

 on the walls, shaped like the segment of a circle, probably 

 painted to commemorate the presence and achievement of 

 Faust, one representing him as drinking to the sound of music 

 with a crowd of merry-making students, and another in which 

 he passes out of the door on a cask, a feat which, I believe, is 

 historical. 



Every traveller visits Auerbach's cellar. When we left, at 

 midnight, it was raining, and as there was not a hack to be 

 had, on account of the lateness of the hour, we were obliged to 

 walk a somewhat indefinite distance to our hotel, and it was a 

 source of infinite amusement to me to see my staid companion 

 throw over his hat a large bandanna handkerchief which hung 

 down around his face, asking every-body we met, in the blandest 

 possible manner, the way to the hotel. We arrived safely at 

 last and I found in the morning that we were directly opposite 

 the great battle-field of Leipsic. The landlord very politely 

 volunteered to go and point out the positions of the two great 

 armies, the spot where Napoleon stood, and other interesting 

 locations connected with historical events. 



The celebrated field of Liitzen, where the great Gustavus 

 Adolphus fell, covered with honorable wounds, during the 

 thirty years' war, is not far off. 



Leipsic is the centre of the immense book trade of Germany. 

 One of the largest wool markets of Saxony is also held there. 

 It is, moreover, the seat of a great university, connected with 

 which is a professorship of agriculture, held, at one time, I 

 believe, by Thaer. At any rate there is a fine statue of that 

 great teacher standing in front of the university museum. 

 Dogs are made to work here, and we see them harnessed into 

 all sorts of vehicles, drawing milk and other market produce. 

 Women are met, with baskets full of live geese swung over the 

 shoulders, and donkies are so common that they can be had in 

 any number for ten or twelve thalers apiece. 



