ESSEX SOCIETY. 7 



thought too triflhig to be noticed, may, in fact, constitute the 

 real differences between the making of good and ordinary but- 

 ter. That such differences do exist, we see exemplified every 

 week. Take, for instance, in any of our towns, two farmers, 

 situated side by side, on lands similar ; you will find one of 

 these going into market, on Saturday, with butter soft and 

 greasy, with small particles of buttermilk oozing out of it ; 

 while the butter of the other is in neatly formed lumps, hard 

 and regular, of a bright yellow color ; the one is slowly sold 

 for a shilling a pound, when the other readily commands a 

 shilling and a half, from purchasers much better satisfied with 

 their bargains. Why this difference in price, unless it be in 

 the management of the dairy ? One of these farmers will be 

 able to thrive and flourish, with painted buildings, and neatly 

 arranged fences, — while the other will have his windows stuffed 

 with rags, and his fences going to ruin. 



It is not enough for claimants to say, in their statements, 

 that about an ounce of salt is applied to each pound of butter, 

 or, that it was salted to suit the taste. Such expressions afford 

 no rule for the instruction of others. Tastes may vary, as 

 much as hands in weight, or feet in measurement ; and the 

 word about has too much of the quality of india rubber, to fas- 

 ten anything. For example, in the statements before us, there 

 is a variance, in the quantity of salt used, of one half, — say 

 from three-fourths of an ounce to one and a half ounces, to the 

 pound. We are aware that there may be differences in the 

 quality of the salt, and that the condition in which the butter 

 comes, may at some times require more salt than at others, and 

 consequently, that the judgment of the persons working it is 

 to be exercised ; but still, we think it is in their power to de- 

 fine how this judgment is to be applied ; and this is the very 

 thing we want to be informed about. These little peculiari- 

 ties Avhich enable good dairy maids to present the nicest of butter. 

 On looking over the statements presented, several difficulties 

 occur in instituting a comparison. Some speak of coios only ; 

 others, of cows and heifers. Some speak of old coivs ; others, 

 of young cows. What the fair proportion is, which a heifer 

 bears to a cow, we have no certain means of determining ; but 



