advisable, because of the added expense. If seedlings are left for 

 more than one year in the seedbed they should be cut back to the 

 ground before being moved. Vigorous sprouts will then replace the 

 sterns. 



PLANTING. 



Seedlings reach suitable planting size in one year, and should be 

 transferred to the field very early in the spring, before the buds start. 

 They should be spaced 6 feet apart each way. No preparation of the 

 whole site prior to planting is needed, except where there is a tough 

 sod. In this case the ground must be broken and the grass turned 

 under if possible ; otherwise the sod should be removed from a small 

 area where a tree is to be placed. 



Yellow poplar is not well adapted for planting in pure stands, but 

 should be mixed with other deciduous species. Unless the other trees 

 in the mixture are slow-growing it must be given a start, so that it 

 will not be overtopped. If the plantation is in a sheltered valley or 

 rich bottomland, yellow poplar may be planted as the predominant 

 tree of the mixture. In more exposed situations the species with 

 which it is planted should be in excess, to provide protection from 

 high winds and frost. 



Any moderately shade-enduring hardwood may be planted with 

 yellow poplar, or mixture with white pine and Norway spruce should 

 also prove suitable. 



CULTIVATION AND CARE. 



Yellow poplar will rarely be planted on tillable land, so that culti- 

 vation in most cases will be impossible. Ordinarily young trees will 

 not be choked out by grass or weeds because of their rapid growth. 

 When field sowing of the seed is practiced, however, it may be neces- 

 sary to check the weeds for the first two or three years. 



No grazing should be allowed in the plantation and fires should be 

 absolutely kept out, since the yellow poplar, even when mature, is 

 very easily injured by fire. 



[Cir.93] 



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