17 



severe frost is past, is the best time, since the seedlings will by winter 

 be strong enough to resist the cold, drying winds. The broadleafed 

 trees should always be transplanted between late March and early 

 June. 



METHODS OF PLANTING. In planting evergreens care must be taken 

 to prevent the drying out of the roots. When seedlings can not be 

 planted at once, they should be removed from the packing case and 

 11 heeled in" in some shaded situation. If the packing case with the 

 seedlings is placed in a cool cellar and the roots well moistened they 

 will remain in good condition for several days, but if the tops become 

 wet they will heat, become moldy, and die. Small evergreens should 

 be carried to the planting site in baskets or pails containing a few 

 inches of water. The roots may be kept moist with wet moss or sacks 

 placed about them. The hole should be considerably larger than the 

 root system and the seedlings should be set a little deeper than they 

 stood in the nursery row. The soil must be packed firmly about the 

 roots. 



SPACING. The pines and spruces should be planted in rows from 12 

 to 16 feet apart, with the trees from 6 to 10 feet apart in the row. There 

 should not be less than four rows in a windbreak. When the trees are 

 from 8 to 12 years old the rows should be thinned, in order that all the 

 trees may have sufficient moisture and room for full development. 

 Corn may be grown between the rows for two or three years, which 

 will provide cultivation for the trees and at the same time yield a profit. 

 The hardwoods, such as silver maple, catalpa, honey locust, and ash, 

 should be planted from 6 by 6 feet to 10 by 10 feet apart each way. 

 Thinnings should be begun when the trees are small poles and 

 continued as long as there is danger of injury from overcrowding. 



DISTANCE AND DIRECTION FROM DWELLINGS AND ORCHARDS. Many 

 windbreaks have failed because they were placed too close to the home 

 buildings and orchards, so that snow is piled in around the buildings 

 and over the orchards. Windbreaks should be 5 or 6 rods from the 

 buildings they are to protect, and there should be a space of 2 or 3 rods 

 between the outer and inner rows of trees. 



Orchards should not be completely surrounded by windbreaks, 

 since lack of air drainage seems to increase the danger from disease and 

 insects. The stillness of the air within such an inclosure makes it 

 possible that a warm day may start the buds of fruit trees enough so 

 that they will be killed by the frost which usually follows. The same 

 stillness of air may, on the other hand, cause a lower temperature on a 

 cold day or night, and create a " frost pocket/' so that there may be 

 killing frosts within an orchard too completely surrounded by wind- 

 breaks, when they do not occur outside. 



[Cir. 154] 



