STREET TREES. 7 



The tree to be planted will be more likely to thrive if it comes 

 from a reputable nursery than if it grew wild, because nursery cul- 

 ture induces the development of compact root systems and lessens 

 the risk of moving. The larger the mass of small feeding roots 

 that is taken up, and the more earth that is moved with them, the 

 quicker and better will the tree establish itself. Red Gum has 

 very tender roots and is rarely planted successfully unless it is 

 moved with a "ball" the same as an evergreen (p. 10). A tree 

 of any kind should be healthy, symmetrical, and, as a rule, have a 

 breast-high diameter of between 2 and 3 inches and a height of 

 about 12 feet. 



To insure the necessary headroom for street traffic no tree that 

 forks at less than 10 feet above the ground should be used, and 

 no branch whose base is less than 7 feet above the pavement should 

 be retained. Contrary to a common belief, the branches of a tree 

 remain fixed forever at one height above the ground; their bases 

 are not carried upward by growth. (Frontispiece.) 



Trees to avoid. Silver Maples, Poplars and Willows are rapid 

 growers but short lived, easily broken and given to producing sur- 

 face roots and suckers. Locust is thin foliaged and subject to a 

 boring insect. Nut trees invite injury by their fruit. 



Location. If conditions permit it, trees usually should be 

 planted inside the sidewalk rather than close to the curb. There they 

 are less subject to injury, their roots have more room, their crowns 

 are less in contact with overhead wires, and they shade the houses 

 better. Wherever space permits it is well to depart from straight 

 lines. 



Intervals. Street trees usually are planted too closely together. 

 The proper distance will be determined to some extent by the 

 species, the width of the sidewalk and the front width of the build- 

 ing lots. A safe rule is so to space the trees that their crowns 

 will never interfere, but have considerable air and light between. 

 Thirty feet is a minimum interval ; fifty feet or more is better. 



When to plant. Trees can be planted at any time when they are 

 not in leaf. They are most apt to succeed if planted in spring, as 

 soon as the frost is out of the ground. A cloudy, quiet day is bet- 

 ter than a bright or windy one. (See p. 10.) 



How to plant. Dig the hole before the tree arrives and follow 

 instructions given in figure 3. If the local soil is poor make the hole 

 at least two feet larger and one foot deeper than is required. Re- 

 move the poor soil and bring good, rich loam. Cut off all broken 

 roots but save as many as possible of the small fibrous ones. Be 

 careful that the roots do not dry out. Put enriched earth in the 

 hole until the tree when standing upon it will be two inches lower, 

 not more, than it stood in the nursery. Hold the tree upright, fill 

 in the mixed soil and fertilizer and compact it firmly about the roots. 



