NOVA SCOTIA. 127 



with gossamer curtains ; sheets snowy white ; bouquets of 

 wild flowers, renewed every day ; boots blacked in the morn- 

 ing ; a rising bell, or a little maid's tap at the door ; break- 

 fast under hot covers broiled salmon, baked trout with 

 cream, omelettes, toast, broiled beefsteak, (everybody else fries 

 it down there,) coffee, eggs, milk, wild honey, and " all that 

 sort of thing ad libitum, ad infinitum" At seven o'clock, 

 sJiarp, every morning, the wagon is brought to the door and 

 loaded. In the hinder part we stow a hamper of biscuit and 

 cheese, sandwiches, cold ham, sardines, sometimes a boiled 

 lobster (they catch them here by the thousand and can them 

 for market), hard-boiled eggs, bottles of claret and Bass's beer, 

 a big chunk of ice, a couple of lemons, salt, pepper, and 

 sugar, with all table utensils necessary ; also pickles. This 

 is for luncheon. We never carry pie ; it squashes. Under 

 the seats we place our waterproofs, wading trousers, and extra 

 boots and socks ; then we light pipes or cigars and mount 

 to our seats ; Charley hands us our rods, which we nurse 

 tenderly, and giving the word "go," we rattle off under the 

 respectful but admiring gaze of a dozen lobster-crackers 

 going to work in the factory, and of all the early risers in 

 the village. For, be it known, this diurnal departure and the 

 arrival of the stage at noon, are the great events of the pass- 

 ing days. 



At sundown the wagon will be sent- to the river to bring 

 us back with our trophies. It is a great satisfaction to be 

 able to exhibit the trophies of one's skill or endeavor. The 

 two greatest rewards of effort are the accomplishment of 

 something to be done, and the praise which follows success. 

 Indeed, they are the only substantial pleasures of life. Poor 

 satisfaction is it to catch fish when you cannot bring them 

 home ; indifferent reward to contemplate by one's self a hard- 

 won conquest after days of travel and nights of toil, with 

 only a wilderness stream to reflect the image of his disgust 

 and discontent. Chester is one of the very few places where 

 the luxury of fishing can be enjoyed without this alloy. 



