THE LOWEK ST. LA WHENCE. 161 



pick their way through the strange places. Solicitous priests 

 in long black cassocks assist the bewildered sheep. Trucks 

 trundle furiously up the gangway plank with trunks. Sol- 

 diers in undress-scarlet elbow through the mass. And 

 "blarsted" Englishmen in frieze suifcs and Scotch caps stand 

 immovable in everybody's way, and complacently survey the 

 tumult with their glasses. Leaving our friends to get into 

 the long omnibus of the St. Louis Hotel, we mount a 

 cabriolet for novelty's sake, and touching up our scrub of a 

 pony, rattle off through two or three narrow streets of the 

 Lower Town. Then we ascend by a circuitous road to the 

 old " Prescott Gate," with its nail-studded oaken doors and 

 mediaeval masonry, and passing its dingy portals, drive into 

 the Upper Town drive past the "Durham Terrace" and 

 catch a glimpse of the beautiful champaign country across 

 the river -below: past the Catholic Seminary and the little 

 public square with its fountain and flowers ; and then along 

 a range of law-offices, up to the entrance of an immense 

 modern hotel, six stories high, kept by the Brothers Kussell, 

 who are Americans, and welcome Americans with the cor- 

 diality of kin and countrymen. Directly opposite is the 

 house where Montgomery's corpse was laid after his futile, 

 attempt to scale the heights. It is now used for a barber- 

 shop. Ten rods off is the market-place and the two cathe- 

 drals, the club-house and the convents. In fifteen minutes 

 one can see the whole of that part of Quebec included within 

 the walls, though hackmen will contrive to eke an hour's 

 drive out of it at a charge of a pound or so to strangers. 

 After you have been in town a fortnight and begin to be 

 known, they will put the job at " we'll say five shillings." 



If you wish to angle in the vicinity or make a five weeks' 

 trip down the St. Lawrence, the Messrs. Russell will cheer- 

 fully put you in the way of obtaining all requisite infor- 

 mation, and assist in selecting your outfit ; for these gentle- 

 men are thorough sportsmen, and one of them (I crave his 

 pardon) has the longest two-jointed spliced salmon-rod I ever 

 11 



