BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 



around the grafts and then press firmly against each graft with 

 the ball of the foot. Fill the trench full and repeat the footing 

 process again. A more expeditious way is to plow out a furrow 

 instead of making it with a spade, and then fill the trench v ith a 

 plow. In this way the work may be successfully done if the soil is 

 not dry and the season is favorable. But it pays well to do good 

 work, and where one has only a few hundred or a thousand grafts 

 to plant the spade method is most certain. In planting in a dry 

 time the great key to success is to have the land firm and solid 



around the root and the 

 union so that there will 

 be no airspace. This 

 is very important. In 

 two or three years from 

 the root-graft the trees 

 will be large enough to 

 be transplanted to the 

 orchard. The kind of 

 roots which they will 

 bear at this time is 

 well illustrated in Pig. 

 50. In this figure A 

 shows a tree which has 

 been ruined by improp- 

 er digging; B and G 

 trees that have rooted 

 from the scion and 

 have lost the original 

 root stocks. 



Side Grafting. 

 Side grafting is illus- 

 trated in Pig. 102, in 

 which a represents the 

 scion, b shows the stock 

 prepared for the scion, 

 c the graft made, and d 

 the same covered with 

 wax. This form of 



FIG. l*.-Root grafting illustrated. A, stock; ^fting is especially 

 , scion; a, scion and stock prepared; D, applicable to cherry 

 graif made; E, graft completed and wrapped seedlings, on which 

 with 'waxed cloth. union ghould 



at the crown of the plant, which is just below the surface of the 

 land. This form of grafting may be successfully used on plums, 

 apples, and other fruits. If it is done on the branches of a tree 

 there is no necessity of cutting off the part above the graft until 

 the scion starts into growth. 



Grafting Below Ground. If gracing is done just below 

 the surface of the ground the work 13 much more certain of being 



