62 ORCHIDS I HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 



EXCESSIVE HEAT TO OECHIDS. 



I have already deprecated any attempt to force Orchids pre- 

 maturely into flower or growth, by giving them a much higher 

 temperature than they ought to have. To ensure free healthy growth 

 I wish again to warn young growers of the dangers to the health of 

 the plant by so doing, for, from this cause alone, many plants are 

 weakened in constitution, and get into a debilitated state, from which 

 they do not easily recover. This will apply to all species, but more 

 especially to those recognised as " Cool-house Orchids," these certainly 

 will not submit to excessive heat ; and nothing could be more suicidal 

 than to attempt to force the flowers to expand at a given date, by 

 placing the plant in extra warmth. Should this be done for exhibition, 

 or for any other purpose, no surprise need be felt if the plant is 

 reduced in vitality, and become an easy prey to insect pests ; while no 

 appreciable difference is made in the time of blooming, indeed, in some 

 cases it is later, while in others the flowers may be a little earlier but 

 of an inferior quality, and shorter lived than when allowed to develop 

 gradually in their proper temperature. Instead of forcing, it is much 

 safer to retard the blooming, but even this I do not recommend. The 

 time of flowering of a few Orchids may, however, be made earlier or 

 later than its usual period, if desired, by a systematic gentle application 

 of more warmth or cold during the time the plants are pushing their 

 flower spikes. The treatment for the first year may make very little 

 difference, but in the succeeding years it will be more apparent, and 

 the plants remain healthy and strong. Some species of Dendrobiums 

 are more amenable than most Orchids to this treatment in the matter 

 of flowering at an earlier date, and when sound plants are grown 

 of such species of Dendrobium as Wardianum, nobile, aureuni, 

 Ainsworthii, lituiflorum, Devonianum, and Pierardi, the greater part 

 of which flower at the latter end of February, it is easy to extend their 

 blooming period, say from January to the end of March. I have often 

 had them in flower at Christmas, but it is too early for them, the flowers 

 being weak and few, and the new growth much weakened. If it is 

 desirable to have Dendrobiums by the beginning of February, they 

 should be taken from their resting quarters with a cool, dry temperature 

 of between 45 to 50 degrees, and, after being sponged over, and 

 examined for red spider, and tied up neatly to fresh sticks, the plants 

 should be removed and gradually inured to a warmer place in the 

 Intermediate house, where they can have plenty of light, watering 

 them very carefully, or the flower buds may turn yellow and die, or 

 run to growth instead of flower. If the instructions given are 

 followed, the blooms will be better coloured than if pushed on all the 

 time in a warmer house; no excessive measure must be brought to 

 bear upon them, either to "retard" or to "hasten." 



