ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 177 



H. H., LEICESTERSHIRE, asks : Will you kindly give some information as 

 to the cause of " spot " in our Aerides, also Oncidium Lanceanum ; you will 

 find leaves enclosed for your inspection. The temperature at night is 65 to 70, 

 by day 70 to 75, and we give side ventilation cautiously. 



REPLY. The leaves of the Aerides Fieldingi are in some places quite 

 rotten and badly attacked by fungus, easily seen by the aid of a microscope, and 

 resemble grains of white sand in masses. Evidently the plants are growing in 

 too much heat and moisture and the stove temperature is too much for them. 

 The warm end of an Intermediate house would suit them much better. As soon 

 as the decay is noticed make incisions with a knife on the parts affected and 

 put in a little slaked lime. The compost during the winter should not be 

 kept too wet. 



The leaves of Aerides odoratum have been greatly affected by yellow 

 thrip and the leaves are quite yellow from this cause, not by old age. See that 

 your plants are freed from this dangerous pest. 



The leaf of Oncidium Lanceanum is also affected by yellow or black thrip 

 and is badly spotted, the surface of the leaf is in a very rough state from the 

 action of these insects, not from the dreaded spot caused by wrong treatment. 

 [See also answer to A. G., Liverpool, and W. A. G-., S. Wales.] 



From F, A. B. W. With all your careful appliances for the growth of 

 Orchids, you can have no idea of the great difficulties encountered by many a 

 poor amateur who loves Orchids but has only a cold vinery attached to his 

 dwelling-house and has to employ a gas or oil stove to keep out the frost. You 

 will say it is presumptuous of such a man to try to grow Orchids under such 

 circumstances. It may be so, but what if the poor man is passionately fond of 

 Orchids ? You know the old saying : " Fools step in where angels fear to 

 tread." If a man does love Orchids, he will try to grow them. Do therefore 

 help us with your advice. On page 144 of your book you give a list of Orchids 

 which you say might possibly succeed. For the last half dozen years I have had 

 out of that list, Dendrobiums chrysotoxum, nobile, and thyrsiflorum ; Cattleyas 

 Mossaie, Mendelii, and labiata autumnalis ; Ccslogynes -cri^tata maxima and 

 Massangeana ; Cymbidiums ebumeum and Lovrianum ; Cypripediums 

 Argus, barbatum nigrum, BoxalLii, Harrisifinum, cardinale, hirsutissimum, 

 insigne albo marginatum, Sedeni, punctatum violaceum, Leeanum superbum, 

 Spicerianum, villosum and venustum. Those in italics are either in flower or 

 bud at the present moment (Jan. 10th). Besides these I have a good many 

 other kinds that you do not name in the list on page 144. I give you my 

 lowest night temperature from January 1st 39, 2nd 44, 3rd 44, 4th 45, 

 5th 45, 6th 44, 7th 45, 8th 44, 9th 45, 10th 42. I also give you my 

 highest day temperature for the same period January 1st 44, 2nd 52, 

 3rd 50, 4th 49, 5th 48, 6th 50, 7th 48, 8th 50, 9th 49, 10th 46. 

 I generally have from six to ten or twelve plants in bloom every month of the 

 year. For those fortunate persons who can keep a very lowest mini/mum of 

 50 your list might be largely increased. I had a plant given to me last spring 

 of Oncidiiim sphacelatum which had been growing in a house with & minimum 

 of 60 and kept dry and shaded for some years and it did not bloom. Since it 

 into my possession it has been kept moist and light, and last year all the 



