200 SATURDAY IN MY GARDEN 



Next dust a small quantity of fine silver sand over the surface, and 

 make a hole exactly in the centre to a depth of two inches or so. 

 This can be done with a sharpened piece of wood about the thick- 

 ness of a black lead pencil. As the hole is made a little shower of 

 sand will descend to the base of the hole. This will be found bene- 

 ficial to the cutting in keeping its base free from stagnant moisture, 

 thus preventing the disastrous process known as " damping off." 

 The cutting can now be inserted so as to cover the second joint. 

 The soil should be pressed firmly round the base of the cutting, 

 and a final sharp rap on the potting bench will complete the opera- 

 tion of settling the cutting securely in the soil. Each cutting must 

 be named, and it is also a good plan to inscribe the date on the 

 label for future reference and guidance. The cuttings should be 

 carefully watered in with a fine-rosed can. 



When the batch has been completed, if they are to be kept in a 

 greenhouse or frame it is an excellent plan to place the small pots 

 in a deep box which has been filled either with ashes or clean 

 cocoa-nut fibre refuse. The pots should be plunged to their rims 

 in the fibre. This will help to keep them both warm and moist. 

 A thick sheet of glass can then be placed over the box, and for a 

 few days, until the process of root formation begins, the cuttings 

 may be kept air-tight. So soon, however, as they begin to stand 

 upright and present a bright green appearance at the extremities, 

 air must be supplied in moderate or generous quantities according 

 to the state of the weather. The glass should either be wiped or 

 turned at least once a day, so that the condensed moisture may be 

 removed and a sturdy growth be encouraged. 



In a month or six weeks the young cuttings will be well rooted, 

 and they may then be allowed free access of air by removing 

 them to a shelf in the greenhouse, taking care, however, to keep 

 them near enough to the glass to prevent them from becoming 

 drawn and spindly. Here they will rapidly become established, 

 and will need little attention, save for an occasional watering, 

 until the time arrives for the first repotting. 



By the middle of March chrysanthemum cuttings which were 

 taken in December or January should have received their second 



