226 SATURDAY IN MY GARDEN 



with a good prospect of success if the weather be open and mild, 

 and if, after planting, the bulbs be protected with a covering of 

 ashes or littery manure. But where damage by frost is imminent 

 it is advisable to plant them low down in pots, cover them with 

 ashes or fibre, and keep them well protected. In the meantime 

 root action will have started, and by March or the beginning of 

 April it will be possible to transfer them from the pots direct to 

 the soil without unduly disturbing the roots. For it should never 

 be forgotten that if there is one thing the lily resents more than 

 another it is disturbance while in active growth. 



A close study of the root action of lilies will soon reveal the fact 

 that in this respect there are two classes first, those that make 

 two sets of roots, one from the base of the bulb and the other from 

 the bottom of the flower stem ; second, those that produce roots 

 only from the base of the bulb. L. Auratum is a striking and 

 familiar example of the first class, while Chalcedonicum and 

 Humboldtii are examples of the second class. 



It is clear, therefore, that Class 1 should be planted deeper than 

 Class 2. Bulbs that have basal roots only should be planted three 

 inches deep, each bulb being placed on a layer of coarse sand, and 

 also surrounded by sand before it is covered with soil. Bulbs 

 that produce both basal and stem roots require to be planted from 

 four to six inches deep. A good average rule is to plant lilies at a 

 depth three times that of the bulb. 



After planting, the bulbs will be^ggeatly benefited byja_Joj>- 

 dressing of well-decayed manure. This will serve the double 

 purpose of protecting the bulbs from severe frost and of supplying 

 them with necessary nourishment when active growth begins. 



