AITD WIKB MAKIIJG. 219 



Yellow Hosier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, 

 Emperor, Trusseaux, Herbemont and Lenoir. Some of 

 these will even bear better if the old canes are left for 

 permanent arms as long as they are healthy and vigor- 

 ous, and all the strong shoots of the previous year cut 

 back to two or three buds. A little practice and obser- 

 vation will soon show what modifications are needed to 

 make each variety do its best, and no wine grower can 

 succeed who is not a close observer. Practice alone 

 makes perfect. 



There are many other methods of training in vogue in 

 Germany, France and other countries, which have been 

 tried in California to some extent, but as they all more 

 or less obstruct cultivation, have found little favor. 



The implements used in pruning are the best kinds of 

 pruning shears and a short saw of a semicircular form, 

 with teeth set toward the handle, to cut in drawing. 

 The latter is used to cut out old and dry stumps and 

 very heavy wood, but anyone who understands using 

 pruning shears to advantage will seldom need the saw. 



SUMMER PRUNING, OR PINCHING AND 8UCKERING. 



Much difference of opinion exists as to the value of 

 the practice of shortening in the bearing shoots, many 

 contending that it is injurious, but all agree that sucker- 

 ing should be done as early as possible. This consists 

 in rubbing off all shoots below the head of the vine, and 

 also all the shoots which may grow from the wood of 

 the previous years — shoots in the middle of the head, 

 also called water sprouts, and which seldom bear any 

 fruit, and also all the unfruitful shoots and doable buds 

 from the canes or spurs. Each well-developed bud is a 

 triple one, the main or fruit bud being the central or 

 longest one ; the two smaller or auxiliary buds will often 

 not develop at all, but if they do, only rob the main bud 

 of strength. The best time to do this work is when th^ 



