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quirement is for smooth, full-bodied wines, of sprightli- 



ness and bouquet. With proper management we can 

 make them from the varieties of grapes now at our com- 

 mand. Of the processes of fermentation by means of 

 false bottoms, in closed casks, and others which have 

 their advocates, I have found none better than the sim- 

 ple treatment of fermenting in open vats, which I have 

 practiced while I have been in the State. The grapes 

 are crushed into the vat, and left there until fermenta- 

 tion ensues, which is generally in from twelve to twenty- 

 four hours, according to the temperature. The entire 

 mass should be evened out, so that the berries are sub- 

 merged in the liquid. As soon as active fermentation 

 appears they should be thoroughly stirred three or four 

 times a day, so that no crust can form, and they are 

 kept wholly submerged. This is the main point, — 

 frequent working, so that no part of the mass has a 

 chance to develop acetic acid. Fermentation will set in 

 rapidly and violently, but it generally subsides the fourth 

 or fifth day, when the seething mass will lose its pun- 

 gency and sweetness, and become quiet and cooler. 

 Draw some of the young wine, and if it has acquired a 

 slight bitterness, now is the time to draw off the fluid 

 from below into fresh casks, and press the pomace. 

 Even if it should retain a slight sweetness, as is usual 

 with rich musts, it is better to rack it than to let it be- 

 come flat in the vat. A slight fermentation will con- 

 tinue in the cask, all the saccharine will be changed to 

 alcohol, and the fine bouquet and freshness aimed for 

 will be developed. If it changes its character and color 

 every week for the next month or so, no harm is done. 

 This is a peculiarity of young red wines, and they come 

 out all right if the casks, vats, and everything else have 

 been kept sweet and clean. It is, in fact, one of the 

 most important conditions of wine making that every- 

 thing is kept scrupulously clean* 



