144 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



[For the American Bee Journal ] 



The Honey-Emptying Machino. 



Having received several requests for a de- 

 scription of »ny machine, I would like to de- 

 scribe it once for all in the Journal. 



First, let me say it is a difficult thing for mc 

 to describe; but I will try to make it all plain, 

 and if I fail to do so I shall be pleased to answer 

 any inquiries about it, if the necessary post- 

 age is remitted. 



Provide a tin can 20 inches in diameter by 

 25 inches deep. 



Bill of stock for the rack holding the combs — 

 dimensions given in inches : 



1. 



2. 



3. 



4. 



5. 



0. 



7. 



8. 



9. 

 10. 

 11. 

 12. 

 13. 

 14. 

 15. 



Bottom board 12| x 10 



Two cleats 10| x 



Three pieces 17£ x 



Four pieces 14£ x 



Two pieces 12^ x 



Two pieces 7^ x 



Four pieces 19^ x 



x 



X 

 X 

 X 

 X 



Oue piece 18 



One piece 8 



One piece 22 



Two pieces 7i 



Shaft 36" 



Two pieces wire screen. 19^ x 

 Two pieces wire screen. 8£ x 

 Six strips 14j x 



15-16 



141 



7 t 



X 3 



I 

 I 

 | 

 I 

 i 

 1 



h 

 I 



Use screws to put it together, then if any 

 part needs replacing or adjusting it can easily 

 be done ; it also makes it much stronger, which 

 is quite essential, as a heavy strain comes upon 

 it when in operation. 



Fasten the cleats (2) to the underside of the 

 bottom board, one at each end; also the clamp 

 (9) to the centre of the same side. This piece 

 should have a hole through the centre, 15-16 

 Inch in diameter, to correspond with a similar 

 one through the centre of the board. 



Next, fasten the four pieces (7) to the ends of 

 the bottom board, one end flush with the bot- 

 tom of the cleat (2) and one side flush with the 

 end of the same cleat and the side of the board. 



Now, fasten the two pieces (5) to the top of 

 the outside of the post (7). They will project 

 £ inch at each end. 



Fasten the piece (8) diagonally across the 

 tops of (5), and close to two of the po^ts (7). 

 This piece should hole 15-16 inch through the 

 centre. 



The posts (7) should now be parallel, lh 

 inches apart one way, and 12| inches the other 

 way ; and are ready to have the large screens 

 (13) nailed firmly to their sides. To support 

 these screens more firmly, fasten the strips (4) 

 to the outside of the posts (7) at the top and 

 bottom- Also, fasten the strips (3) lengthwise, 

 to the outside of the posts (7). 



The six pieces (15) are to ba placed, equidis- 

 tant, horizontally across the wire screens, three 

 on each side, to keep them from pressing out- 

 ward, and should be mortised to (3) before the 

 latter are put on. 



Tack the smaller screens to the inside lowei 

 ends of the posts (7), and fasten the strips (6) 

 and (11) to the upper and lower edges of these 

 screens between the posts (7). 



Put in the shaft (12) so that one end will 

 be six inches below the bottom board. A little 

 pin or nail through the clamp (9), and also one 

 through the brace (8), both ending through the 

 shaft, will hold it in place. 



The rack is now complete, with the exception 

 of trimming off some of the corners, and fas- 

 tening it into the can, so that it may be re- 

 volved. 



To do this, I jointed two strips, 20 inches 

 long and one inch square, together in the mid- 

 dle, and made a half inch hole halfway through 

 the centre of them. This just fits in the bottom 

 of the can, and the lower end of the shaft is 

 fitted to it. 



Make an inch hole through the centre of (10), 

 and cut some grooves half way through the 

 same piece, 20 inches apart, so that it will slip 

 on the shaft, and the sides of the can will fit in 

 the grooves. Some little ends soldered to the 

 can, coming up on each side of this piece will 

 keep it in place. 



The rack is now ready to revolve. To do 

 this, fasten a strong cord, about six feet long, to 

 the shaft just above (20) and wind it up. Pull 

 on the cord until it is all unwound, and hold it 

 so that it will wind up again by the acquired 

 velocity of the rack, and the latter will revolve 

 some thirty or forty times, according to the 

 length of your cord. It is easily stopped by 

 seizing the top of the shaft wfth one hand. 

 Then it is ready to revolve in the opposite di- 

 rection. In this way it may be revolved rapidly 

 or slowly as desired. 



Such a rack will accommodate any sized 

 frame, up to 12^ inches wide and 18 inches 

 long. 



If only Langstroth frames of the usual size 

 are to be used, the rack may be made much 

 smaller. 



When I get a pan full of slicings and small 

 bits of comb, I scrape it into the bottom of the 

 rack, and a few turns takes out the honey as 

 clean as it can be strained in any other way. 

 The wire screen should be ten wires to the 

 inch. 



Such a can holds about fifty pounds below the 

 rack. A little tube, three-fourths of an inch in 

 diameter, near the bottom of the can, serves for 

 drawing off the honey. 



If the honey is allowed to stand a little 

 while, after being strained, any particles of wax 

 which have chanced to get in, will rise to the 

 top ; so that most of the honey can be drawn 

 off clear, directly into the glass cans, and save 

 the trouble of straining. 



The cost of the can, $5 ; screws, screen, and 

 wood work, from $1 to $1,50. How long it 

 would take an experienced hand to put one to- 

 gether I cannot say ; but it will take a " green 

 'un" some little time, if not longer. 



Mine was patterned mainly after one I pur- 

 chased of Mr. Langstroth, with some additions 

 of my own, making it stronger and more du- 

 rable. 



I have not attempted using any gearing on 



