Narbonne 



In B6ziers I had to wait from half-past four to six in 

 the morning for a change of carriages, and got a little 

 sleep on the marble slab of a cafe-table. The new carriage 

 proved a wretched rattletrap ; and it turned out that I was 

 booked no further than Narbonne. 



What was worse than the " dis2:race and dishonour " of 

 being taken in, was " the infinite loss " of time ; for it 

 arrived ten minutes too late to catch the diligence for 

 Perpignan, and I had in consequence to wait ten hours in 

 Narbonne. 



I amused myself prowling about among the Roman 

 remains heaped in great quantities in the Museum Gardens. 

 There is a fine church, too — especially the inside — stone 

 roof and handsome columns. It is hung with a quantity 

 of wretched daubs, which my informant (a sea-captain, 

 lately from the Gambia river, who made my acquaintance 

 on the strength of his knowing a little English, and who 

 was kind enough to show me about the place) assured me 

 were principally by Rubens. 



The streets were here and there blocked up by great 

 wine-presses, which, as they were screwed down, gushed 

 with purple spouts into all sorts of tubs, and jars, and pan- 

 nikins. I got more grapes for two sous than I could eat ; 

 excellent grapes too. 



At eight o'clock, very weary of Narbonne, I set off for 

 Perpignan, which I reached at two in the morning, and 

 went to bed. 



Next morning I wandered about the town, and up to the 

 citadel. I inquired for the commandant, and was shown 

 into the presence of a polite colonel with a wooden leg, and 

 a long straggling stringy red beard. 



He called out of his window, which overlooked the prin- 

 cipal court of the fortress, and there came up a smiling old 



53 



