The Road by Twilight 



to Seville, and found it was only four leagues, Alcala de 

 Guadaira being about half-way on the great road. 



We wanted to stop at the venta for the night, but they 

 had no stables, so we got some bread and wine to satisfy 

 the cravings of hunger, and hearing there was a town two 

 leagues further on, we determined to press on, though it 

 was near sunset, and we should have a good way to ride in 

 the dark. The woman at the venta stared at us a good 

 deal ; so, talcing pity on her curiosity, I asked her confiden- 

 tially what she took us for, and gave her full liberty to 

 guess as many times as she chose. 



" It appears to me that your worships are without doubt 

 French caballeros^ and it is regular that you travel with per- 

 fumery ; but I never saw Frenchmen with so many pistols 

 and poniards." 



" We are no Frenchmen, seTiora^ but English artists, at 

 your service ; and pistols and knives are to an Englishman 

 indispensable necessaries of life." 



" There are not so many of the ' mala gente ' about now 

 since the Guardia Civil are so rife on the road. Vamos ! 

 do you not take the rest of your loaf with you ? " 



"It is much at your disposal — remain with God, 



ienoray 



" The English are of a truth very rich and noble — may 

 your worships go with God, caballeros." 



As we rode on, the sun soon went down, and the dusk 

 deepened rapidly. We were joined by a man on an ass, 

 who entered into conversation. 



" By your speech, caballeros^ I should say you were not 

 of these parts ; are you not afraid to travel on these roads 

 after dark ? There is a formidable band which greatly 

 infests the neighbourhood of Utrera. They robbed a traveller 

 last week of three hundred dollars." 



125 



