Valley of the Xenar 



narrow paths along precipice-ledges, into a valley which had 

 no road to speak of, except the bed of the Xenar, but the 

 scenery was very beautiful. On inquiring whether people 

 ever came that way from Gibraltar, he said he had come 

 that way sometimes on smuggling expeditions. 



At one time we thought he was leading us into a trap, 

 when he was hailed by a party of men with guns sitting on 

 the hill above us. We were not robbed, and parted with 

 him amicably, giving him a cigar and some copper coins. 

 At a mill, by his parting directions, we went up a very 

 steep zig-zag path into the mountains ; and some time after 

 crossed a very deep valley, and climbed, about sunset, hot 

 and breathless, into a picturesque village on the opposite 

 hill-brow. 



As we went up the steep winding street of the village, 

 some women asked us eagerly what wares we brought, and 

 seemed disappointed that we had only materials to make 

 portraits. Near the summit of the place stood a shabby old 

 posada. The stable was entered by a door lower down the 

 hill, but the communication between it and the posada was 

 by a flight of steep, mossy stone steps, which emerged on 

 the higher level of the court-yard, like the mouth of a well. 

 We had some ?niga'^ and chocolate, and fried eggs, sitting in 

 the deep-niched window of a large vaulted room with arched 

 alcoves, whose nooks and angles took picturesque lights and 

 shadows in the fading hues of sunset. 



While we were eating, we heard a step at the door, and 

 in walked a serious-looking visitor, with shaggy grey hair ; 

 he said nothing, but stood gazing, motionless, with long 

 down-dropped ears, for he was a donkey. He was shortly 

 discovered by the daughter of the house, who was waiting 



' Miga is made of bread-crumbs, damped and salted, and fried 



in oil. 



156 



