Gibraltar 



and with the wine-jug they never think of giving two 

 persons more than a glass — but then, of course, the other 

 may drink out of the jug. 



I ate a mouthful, and immediately fell asleep, with a long 

 cigar in my mouth. Harry, however, considerately routed 

 me up, and got me off to bed. He said next morning that 

 he did not believe I ever woke up at all, for I held my 

 candle at right-angles and talked incoherently in Spanish to 

 the English waiter, who seemed much shocked. 



This morning I rose quite rested, and on my feed again. 

 Gibraltar was now within a league and a half of us, and 

 looked much more striking than any view I had seen of it, 

 going round by sea on the other side. 



Crossing a great number of drawbridges over broad fosses, 

 between successive rims of battery, we pass at length be- 

 neath the shoulder of the great rock. The market was 

 crowded with all nations : Turks and Jews, and Moors and 

 Greeks, in turbans and jillabiahs and fezzes, chattering an 

 immense variety of languages. The long street was full ot 

 familiar English faces, and the shop-windows surmounted 

 with familiar English names. People stared at us a little as 

 we rode in, and we heard a gentleman with a white tie and 

 spectacles say to a young gentleman in a very long waist- 

 coat, with a very large gold cable-chain (evidently his 

 travelling pupil), " Look there ! — here is doubtless a pair of 

 those picturesque Ronda smugglers Mr. Ford speaks of." — 

 " All serene ! " replied the young gentleman, without any 

 tokens of tempestuous interest. 



The waiters of the Clubhouse Hotel seemed quite aghast 

 at such an abnormous pair of Englishmen, but we faced them 

 with calm indifference, as if we were quite convinced that all 

 travellers arriving from Spain came in a similar disguise. 

 But it appeared, from the curiosity we excited, that there 



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