The Armeria 



sorry to say that the expectations we had formed of Toledo 

 were not realised. We immediately set about seeing what 

 was to be seen ; but the cathedral, which we began with, did 

 not strike us much ; it has neither much grace nor magni- 

 ficence. What struck me most, were some large and rather 

 brilliant frescoes along the arched walls of the cloister. 

 They are, I believe, neither very antique nor very excellent 

 in point of art ; but the effect was peculiar. 



The view of the city from the tower was cold and stony, 

 with but little beauty or irregularity of form in the hill on 



which it stands. B had to go back on the morrow 



early, and we determined to accompany him, instead of 

 waiting two days more for the diligence's next trip. I think, 

 perhaps, if it had not been for the sake of his agreeable 

 society, we might have stayed, on the chance of Toledo's 

 improving on further acquaintance. But this overbalanced 

 our further curiosity ; so, as I wanted to have a real Toledo 

 blade for my court sword, I made haste, and left them 

 in the cathedral-tower, and hurried down to the armeria^ 

 which lies below the city, about a mile out, that I might get 

 there before it closed. 



It is a huge building, where the clash and clang of ham- 

 mers and the roar of furnaces resound. It is a government 

 fabric, but there is a bureau where they keep samples for 

 sale. I bought the lightest small-sword I could find, and a 

 dagger for Harry. As I was coming away I met Harry and 



B . We went and sat by the banks of the Tagus, near 



a watermill. 



The view of Toledo here, where the river sweeps round 

 the foot of the long battlement-crowned hill, is picturesque ; 

 and Harry got out his sketch-book, while we sat and extem- 

 porised little better than nonsense verses on the sunset, and 

 the Tagus, and Toledo ; and while I washed and rubbed 



299 



