The Alcalde 



public opinion on our side, by making civil speeches to the 

 bystanders — giving a cigarlllo or two to the men — admiring 

 a baby or two in the arms of influential matrons, and insinu- 

 ating a compliment or two on their own charms to the 

 younger ladies. 



The jefe politico (political chief) of the place was a quiet, 

 respectable-looking man, dressed in pano pardo (brown 

 cloth). I saluted him with respectful ceremony, handed 

 him our papers, and from the saddle delivered a dignified 

 and moderate statement of our case, while he stood in 

 judgment beneath the porch of his house. When I had 

 done, the caminero demanded a private audience, and they 

 entered the house together. When they came out again, 

 the alcalde looked rather perplexed and irresolute. Of 

 course he could not understand a word of our passports, 

 which were in English and French. He said copies must 

 be taken of them, and sent to Madrid ; that he could not 

 see we had been to blame ; but as we had brought the 

 man ofF his work, we had better give him a gratuity of a 

 peseta. 



" Our papers are in order, as you must clearly see, Senor 

 Alcalde. They are already registered in the archives of all 

 the ambassadors in Madrid. Therefore our names will be 

 sufficient, and these we are prepared to give you. As to 

 giving a gratuity to this man, the trouble he has had is only 

 the result of his little judgment and want of discrimination, 

 in mistaking so principal cavaliers for suspicious persons. 

 He has been insolent, also, to the full extent of his conver- 

 sational powers. If we encourage this ill-behaviour by 

 rewards, we make other travellers on the road all the more 

 liable to be annoyed and impeded by any caminero^ mas 

 tonto que regular (more foolish than usual), who may take 

 it into his head to stop them. Therefore, with all respect 



