LITERATURE AND DRAMA 



the dress. They had one plan, distinct from that described of 

 which more anon, when treating of the mantle, for which this 

 second plan was more generally used than for the tunic. 



Next fasten the buttons, b b, taking care to turn in the edge 

 between c and a (Fig. 1). The dress will now hang as shown 

 in Fig. 3, with a kind of pocket at c ; this pocket is formed inde- 

 pendently of any buttons at b b, and might have been shown in 

 Fig. 2. The pocket, as it shall be called hereafter, plays an 



important part in the dress. It is 

 easily recognised in several statues. 

 The Greek ladies wore both loose 

 hanging sleeves and short close 

 sleeves. If hanging sleeves are 

 wanted, the zone alone is required 

 to complete the dress. This zone 

 should be a stiff metal band, fulfil- 

 ling some of the functions of stays ; 

 the pocket should be lifted up a 

 little and the zone put on under- 

 neath it, and as high up on the 

 figure as possible. The clasping of 

 the zone is a very delicate matter, 

 because the dress is gathered to- 

 gether by it, and on the neatness 

 of the folds at the zone depends 

 the elegance of the dress. The folds 

 are, in Greek examples, symmetri- 

 cally arranged, of nearly equal size, 

 turning outward towards the arms, as shown in Fig. 4. When 

 the zone has been put on and the folds neatly made under it, 

 the dress must be pulled up, without disturbing the folds, so far 

 through the zone as to hang of even length all round the feet. 

 Now observe that to do this it must be much more pulled up at 

 the sides than in the front, the length from a to e (Fig. 1) being 

 considerably greater than the mere width of the shawl measured 

 vertically from a to the feet. The sleeve is quite complete when 

 the zone has been clasped. The commonest statue of Diana 

 affords an example of this sleeve, and Mr. Leslie has shown it 

 in his picture of ' The Fountain.' Pretty as it is, this sleeve is 



FIG. 3. 



