42 LITERATURE AND DRAMA 



2. The dress can be made without being cut from the simple 

 woven parallelogram. 



3. The set over the bust of most statues is exactly 

 reproduced with the series of curved folds converging at the 

 shoulders. 



4. The mass of drapery at the hips, forming the arch as 

 viewed from the front, results, not from design, but from the 

 necessity of having the dress of equal length at the sides and in 

 front. 



5. Both varieties of sleeve can be produced at will by the 

 cord or zone. 



These are the arguments which induce me to believe 

 that the dress produced is really made as Greek women made 

 theirs. 



Hitherto nothing has been said of the back. The backs of 

 statues are much less perfectly finished than the fronts ; more- 

 over, it is awkward to arouse the suspicions of the guardians of 

 galleries by creeping behind statues too much. Speaking from 

 experience of the living model, I may say that the back view 

 looks best to modern eyes when the dress is, at the back, not 

 drawn up through the zone ; this results in giving a small train. 

 A few notes will complete what is to be said of the tunic. The 

 pocket c may be shortened by folding in, or cutting off, the 

 shawl along the dotted lines in Fig. 1 : I suspect that this was 

 done in some examples of very full drapery, which might be 

 produced by putting two shorter shawls together, instead of 

 folding one longer shawl. For dancing girls and Spartan virgins 

 the ends of the shawl were not sewn together, and so showed the 

 leg from one side. In modern pictures I observe a cord crossed 

 over the breast ; this, no doubt, is founded on some examples 

 with which I have not happened to meet. 



Let us pass to the diplois, or mantle. Hope has correctly, 

 though incompletely, described this : it is a mere scarf, twelve 

 or fourteen feet long, and of different widths in different examples. 

 It is folded in exactly the same way as the tunic, but the ends 

 are not sewn together. The result is shown in Fig. 9. The 

 pocket hangs down at one side, and balances the two ends 

 hanging from the other shoulder. The zigzag folds are pro- 

 duced by the bunch gathered at the clasp on the shoulders ; the 



