ON THE ANTIQUE GREEK DRESS FOR WOMEN 43 



same arched effect is produced as is given by the tunic drawn 

 through the zone ; but there is a straight line crossing the body 

 in a way not altogether graceful. Numerous examples of this 

 may be seen in Hope's book. In the later dresses the bib was 

 artificially arched, the width in the centre of the body being 

 considerably reduced. In earlier examples the scarf was often 

 doubled in front, as Hope suggests, probably to make it narrow 

 enough ; but I think the scarf was always spread to its full width 

 behind, otherwise I have by experiment found that the narrow 

 diplots produced an awkward hunchbacked appearance. There 

 are many drawings in which the 

 diplots is really single, though 

 it looks double ; this effect being 

 produced merely by the habit of 

 turning in the edge to give firm 

 hold for the clasps. 



In the diplots the folds over 

 the bosom are generally vertical, 

 and in the simpler examples 

 there is just one fold in the 

 centre ; this is produced by 

 catching the stuff together some 

 three or four inches below the 

 top edge, and more than one 

 fold can be produced in this 

 way if desired. The abomina- 

 tion of a tape running in a seam 

 produces nothing like it, nor 

 does simple looseness, the effect 

 of which is quite correctly given in Mr. Leslie's dark green 

 diplots, folded double according to Hope ; and singularly awk- 

 ward it is, forming a kind of cup projecting under the chin. 

 For simplicity's sake, Fig. 9 shows the diplots alone, when the 

 dress is 'not gathered up through the zone ; but the Greeks 

 generally wear it so narrow as to show the folds of the tunic 

 hanging below the zone. Let any one buy a photograph of 

 Mrs. Kendal as Galatea, and compare this description with the 

 millinery mantle cut low at the back with a stiff top and vertical 

 plaits all along, and then, whichever he prefers, he will allow 



