Rods and Rod Material. 135 



like lead, and all season-crooks can be taken out once for 

 all. Now plane in your taper, touching only the sides, 

 a and b, until you have quite finished them, for you can 

 then see the glue line, c d, and so work the surfaces, a 

 and b, as to keep that line central. Then finish the taper 

 by working off the sides, c and d. Use every precaution to 

 keep the intersection of the lines, a b and cc?, in the mid- 

 dle of the joint. If your glue joints are as they should 

 be, they ought to be almost invisible ; and this may 

 bother you, since they are your only guide. Therefore, 

 if you do not object to having the glue line appear on 

 the finished rod, rub the glue sides, before you apply the 

 glue, with red chalk. This will not injure, but rather in- 

 crease the tenacity of the glue. 



Remember to use glue that has never been melted be- 

 fore, and without the admixture of any old glue what- 

 ever. Soak it in cold water during the night before it 

 is to be used. You will find it in the morning much 

 swollen and flabby, and in this condition you should melt 

 it without adding further water. 



It will be noticed that by this method the direction 

 of the would-be lines of fracture cross one another, and 

 that a break in a joint so made must occur, not in the 

 natural direction, but directly across the fibre. Thus 

 results a great gain both in strength and elasticity. 

 This is decidedly the best way to make an iron wood rod. 

 Wrap with silk, as though the rod were of split-bamboo. 



One precaution the ironwood rod requires beyond 

 every other water must be excluded, or it becomes 

 leaden and soggy at once. Nothing but the best coach- 

 body varnish, and plenty of it, should be applied to such 

 a rod, and one coat at least should precede any wrap- 

 pings. 



