168 Fly-rods and Fly-tackle. 



Set it one side, and proceed to square and taper the 

 other joints in the same way, but not to round them till 

 you have taken the following step : Apply your male, or 

 inside, ferrule to the larger 'end of your middle joint or 

 tip. You will find it too large to enter. Turn that end 

 from you, and plane off a shaving or two, and the same 

 number, from each face, and try it again. Continue this 

 until small enough, using the utmost caution to avoid 

 excess, and also to treat each side alike, lest your fer- 

 rules set crooked when in position. You will thus take 

 the taper out of a few inches at that part of your joint, 

 which will then be of uniform diameter, and you must 

 work with that end in view; for the rod is flexible, but 

 the ferrule is not, and this method seems best to harmo- 

 nize these discordant characteristics. Then reduce the 

 joint to an octagon, and after that test and round as be- 

 fore. The next step is to fit the ferrules, for which use 

 your scraper, file, and care. Locate the male ferrules so 

 that the excess of length originally allowed will protrude 

 beyond them; and after the ferrule is fastened, cut off 

 this excess. You will thus be rid of the holes, and for 

 this purpose the extra length was allowed. If you get 

 the wood a little too small you need not break your heart 

 over it, since many purposely do this, and then enlarge 

 the wood to fit by wrapping it with thread, claiming that 

 the ferrules thus hold better, and are less likely to be- 

 come loose. If you use thread for this purpose, wind it 

 on evenly, so one part does not overlay another (unless 

 more than one layer is required to make a fit), and paste 

 it down with some of the cement you propose to fasten 

 your ferrules with. Then melt the cement thoroughly 

 through the thread, completely saturating it. Next warm 

 your ferrule, place a small piece of cement inside on that 



