^Rod-making. 



195 



to receive it, warm the ferrule, coat it with cement, and 

 push it into place with a twisting motion. If the cement 

 cools by contact with the interior of the handle, and in- 

 clines to stick, warm a round metal rod and insert it 

 inside of the ferrule. This will re-melt the cement, and 

 you will easily be able to enter the ferrule the remaining 

 distance. 



Fig. 43. 



Fig. 44. 



If the ferrule is to project outside of the handle, it 

 should not exceed two and a half inches in length. The 

 pin on which it sets, and which tinites it to the handle, 

 should be the strongest part of the rod. Unless the ma- 

 terial of which the handle is composed is in itself very 

 strong, a piece of ash, or some wood having the required 

 strength, should be inserted to fill a hole the whole length 

 of the grasp, and glued in place, leaving enough project- 

 ing to place the ferrule on. If this method is followed, 

 any light wood that suits the fancy will answer for a 

 handle red cedar for instance, or sumach, either of which 

 finishes to look well. Or bird's-eye maple may be used, 

 and the projection be formed with the handle, and of the 

 same material, thus dispensing with the labor of boring, 

 etc. Curly maple makes a handsomer job, but it is not 

 so strong. In this case the handle should be ten inches 

 long, measured from the edge of the ferrule, where it 



