CUTTAGE. 



59 



and the wood has about attained its growth. They are cut to 



two to four or five buds and are planted an inch or two deep in 

 shaded frames. They are kept close for some days 

 after setting, and the tops are sprinkled frequently. 

 Care must be taken not to set them too deep ; they are 

 rarely put in over an inch, if the cutting is six or seven 

 inches long. "June stock cuttings" are sometimes 

 advantageously made ; here the young shoots of hardy 

 shrubs are taken, when about two to three inches 

 long, the leaves partly removed, and they are planted 

 under glass, precisely as the geranium is treated in the 

 autumn. Several weeks are required for rooting, but 

 good plants are obtained which, when wintered in a 

 cold frame, can be planted out in beds the next spring. 

 Great care must be given to shading and watering. 

 Hydrangea paniculata var. grandiflora, and Aktbia 

 qtiinata are examples ; or any 

 54- deutzia or more easily handled 

 cutting plant of which stock is scarce 

 held by may be cited, 

 splinter. p aft of the j eaves are remov- 

 ed, as a rule, before the cuttings are set, as 



shown in the rose cutting, Fig. 56, and 



the hydrangea cutting, Fig. 57. This is 



not essential, however, but it lessens 



evaporation and the tendency to "flag" 



or wilt. In most species the top can be 



cut off the cutting, as seen in Figs. 44 



and 57, but in other cases it seriously 



injures the cutting. Fig. 58 shows a 



weigela cutting from which the top was 



clipped. An unusually large callus formed 



at the bottom, but the leaves shrivelled 



and the cutting is dead. This frequently Flg- 



occurs in what some nurserymen call 



"end growers," among which may be mentioned weigelas 



(properly diervillas), the shrubby altheas, Cerds Japonica, and 



