PRUNING 8 1 



and Winesap, have a tendency to make weak crotches ; 

 while others, as Tolman and McMahon, always form 

 strong, clean forks. The fruit grower, by careful and 

 timely attention during the first two years, can secure 

 the formation of branches practically where he wants 

 them. Such attention is most timely during the early 

 summer months May and June when shoots unde- 

 sirably placed can be quickly rubbed out with the 

 gloved hand. The following spring a very little going 

 over with the pruning shears will complete the work, 

 leaving a few vigorous well-grown symmetrically 

 placed branches where naturally there would have 

 been a lot of crowded, weak, half-choked shoots. 



The question is sometimes discussed whether there 

 should be three, four or five branches reserved to form 

 the framework of the tree. It is largely a matter of 

 taste. The present writer prefers four or five ; but dif- 

 ferent varieties should be treated differently. Spy 

 naturally forms many main branches, King and Pump- 

 kin Sweet much fewer. Whatever the number decided 

 on, the sooner the competing shoots are taken out the 

 better. We have already said that it is best to rub 

 them out in May or June, when they are first starting. 



THE SECOND STAGE 



The framework of the tree having been designed, 

 the work of pruning enters upon its second stage. The 

 chief question now is that of the ultimate size which 

 the fruit grower desires to develop in his tree. There 

 are two general and quite different lines of practice in 

 this matter. The common and certainly the simpler 

 method is to let the tree have its own sweet way. Each 

 tree is allowed to grow and extend its top as far as its 



