43 



cold, and accumulates heat slowly while the air rapidly increases in 

 warmth; the buds are excited to growth, new leaves are formed in ad- 

 vance of the roots, each leaf acts as a pump extracting sap from the 

 branches and trunk of the tree, which as yet has no active roots to 

 supply the demand ; and if evaporation is severe and continued, the 

 plant must either succumb or receive such a check as will require the 

 whole season to recover. Hence it may frequently be observed that 

 spring-planted trees will show a profusion of leaves, apparently vigor- 

 ous and healthy, but suddenly wither and decay under the influence of 

 clear, dry, and warm weather. 



These, so far, show great ad vantages 'in favor of fall planting, but 

 there are other considerations to be canvassed before deciding the ques- 

 tion. It is very clear that unless planting is performed within a certain 

 period the advantage of immediate root-growth will not be secured; if 

 delayed beyond the first week in November, success will be less certain. 

 The best period is undoubtedly as soon as the leaves change color, strip- 

 ping off the foliage before removal. 



The character of the soil and location will also materially influence 

 success. In undraiued clayey soils the trees may not get sufficient 

 root hold to enable them to resist the throwing-out tendency of alternate 

 freezing and thawing, or the young spongioles may be destroyed by 

 constant saturation. Again, in very bleak and exposed localities the 

 drying winds of spring may exhaust the juices faster than the young 

 roots can supply the demands of evaporation. Of course the very evi- 

 dent precaution of securing the plant from swaying should be attended 

 to; otherwise many of the young rootlets will be twisted off. Staking 

 may have to be done where the trees are tall, but it is much pref- 

 erable to stay them with a slight mound of soil over the roots, which 

 can be removed when of no further use. It will also be of great benefit 

 if the frost can be kept from penetrating to the roots. A covering of 

 loose material will be a protection, a wise precaution, even on well-es- 

 tablished trees. 



In northern latitudes, where the winters commence early and continue 

 long and severe, fall planting will not so generally be successful as in 

 more temperate regions, except in particularly favorable localities. 

 Early spring planting, taking the precaution to prune the branches, so 

 as to restore the balance destroyed by the root mutilation inseparable 

 from removals, and mulching over the roots, so as to retain moisture 

 during summer, will be the most likely auxiliaries towards success. 



Evergreens can, in all cases, be most successfully transplanted just 

 as growth commences. When the young shoots exhibit symptoms of 

 pushing, they can be removed without risk 0f failure with ordinary 

 care. They may also be removed in August and September, so that 

 they can have a good season to furnish new roots before winter. Early 

 spring removal of such trees is not advisable, as they have a large 

 evaporating surface, which, when subjected to drying spring winds, re- 

 quires a constant action of root to maintain life. 



