NATURAL HISTORY 55 



longer to penetrate than the other parts, 

 are cooking. But with good and sufficient 

 basting, the fillets may well be kept from 

 drying even without this precaution. 



This is by far the most satisfactory 

 way, and does full justice to the bird. 

 The alternative of roasting in the oven 

 is very inferior, and should be avoided 

 whenever it is possible. In the closed 

 oven it is inevitable that steam should 

 collect on the bird, and this tends to 

 spoil the delicate flavour, which it is so 

 important to preserve. When circum- 

 stances over which they have no control 

 make it necessary for cooks to use the 

 oven, they should take special precautions 

 to neutralize the bad effects of the steam, 

 but where a closed range is in use, it only 

 costs a few shillings to add a bottle-jack 

 and roast the birds in the proper way. 



Served at once, with due accompani- 

 ment of bread sauce, bread-crumbs, and 

 gravy made from the swilling of the drip- 

 ping pan, roast partridge makes a dish, 

 commonplace if you will, yet comparing 



