56 PARTRIDGES 



more than favourably with the thousand - 

 and-one intricate recipes from the modern 

 chef's repertory, of which more anon. 



Such birds as survive the ordeal of 

 the dinner-table should be eaten cold the 

 next day without any further culinary 

 attention. To deal with old birds satis- 

 factorily is a very different and difficult 

 question ; probably it is best to use them 

 only in the preparation of game stock or 

 forcemeats. When they must be used 

 for the table, they probably appear better 

 as perdrioc aux chouoo than in any other 

 form ; a common and homely dish on 

 the Continent, though far rarer in this 

 country than its merits deserve. The 

 methods of preparing perdricc aux chouse 

 are legion ; one simple and effective way 

 is as follows : 



Quarter the cabbage, parboil and cool 

 it. Defoliate the quarters ; suppress the 

 outside leaves and the midribs of the 

 remaining leaves ; season with salt and 

 pepper, and put the cabbage in a sauce- 

 pan garnished with slices of bacon, and 



