PEAR GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. 287 



short-lived. This tendency is without doubt overcome to a large extent 

 by the use of congenial stocks and the proper care of the orchard. 

 There is no logical reason why dwarf pears should not possess as great 

 longevity as standards and the two orchards mentioned indicate that in 

 California there need be no hesitancy about planting dwarfs because of 

 a fear that they will not live long. The possible inferiority of the fruit 

 of some varieties as compared to that grown on standard trees has been 

 suggested. As many more can be planted to an acre than in the case of 

 standards, the production is often greater. Deep planting may cause 

 the growth of roots from above graft, and a tree possessing both dwarf 

 and standard roots will result. Such trees are not objectionable except 

 that if planting has been done at distances suitable only for dwarfs, 

 heavy pruning will be required to keep them within bounds. 



SEEDLINGS. 



The two kinds of seedling trees commonly called French and Japa- 

 nese, but more accurately Pyrus communis and Pyrus serotina, have 

 already been mentioned, and some of the merits and faults of each 

 discussed. There are very few nurserymen in this country who grow 

 their own seedlings for propagating purposes, but if one desires to do 

 so little difficulty need be experienced. Desirable seeds well matured 

 from any variety may be chosen. The trees which will result from 

 the planting of seeds of a known variety will vary widely, and some 

 may not be good stock. For example, if Bartlett seeds are used, each 

 tree grown from them will probably be very different from the Bartlett ; 

 no two will have the same characteristics, and the stock resulting is 

 not liable to possess either the uniformity or desirability of the seedling 

 stock of the wild species. If seeds of either Pyrus communis or Pyrus 

 serotina can be secured, or if it is thought advisable to plant seeds of 

 some of the improved varieties of the pear, it is not a difficult matter 

 to get them to grow. The following method of treating the seed and 

 seedlings after they have grown is recommended :* 



"The seeds should be stratified, i. e., mixed in alternate layers of 

 moist sand in a box, covered securely to guard against rats and mice, 

 and the box should be placed on the north side of some building where 

 it will be exposed to freezing and thawing throughout the winter until 

 the time of planting. If the seeds are planted in rows three feet 

 apart in good soil, and given thorough culture, they will make a 

 sufficient growth in one season for budding or grafting. If wanted for 

 root grafting the seedlings should be taken up in the fall and stored 

 in a cellar where they will keep fresh and be accessible at any time 

 during the winter; if wanted for budding they may be buried in the 

 soil outside until the time of planting in the spring, when they may 

 be set in nursery rows four feet apart, with the plants ten inches apart 

 in the row." 



BUDDING. 



The most popular and undoubtedly the best method for making the 

 seedling over into the improved variety selected is budding, and prac- 

 tically all nurserymen adopt this plan rather than the old method of 



'Farmers Bulletin 482 of the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, by G. B. Brackett. 



