SO ESSEX SOCIETY 



to twenty-five feet, to allow sufficient room for the growth of 

 the branches and nourishment for the roots. Pears grafted on 

 the quince stock or thorn, may be set out within eight or ten 

 feet of each other. In planting the tree, a hole should first be 

 made from twelve to twenty inches deep, depending upon the 

 character of the sub-soil, and of width sufficient to embrace all 

 the roots without turning them in. The roots of the tree to 

 be planted, should be carefully examined, and all defective or 

 bruised ones cut off smoothly, and the tap-root, if long, should 

 be severed. The tree should then be carefully inserted in the 

 hole, and good fine loam carefully packed in around the roots, 

 care being taken to press the earth under the roots so as to 

 leave no vacuum. The roots should be spread out horizon- 

 tally, and great care taken to cover with very fine earth the 

 little fibres from the roots, which are essential to the nourishment 

 of the tree. The tree should not be shaken or pressed down 

 after the dirt is filled in around it, as the effect is to injure and 

 break off the fibres. No manure should be put into the hole 

 with the roots, as in dry weather it heats and burns the roots so 

 as to cause the tree to blight. Care also should be taken not to 

 set the tree too deep, as it is oftentimes fatal. The depth of the 

 nursery is generally sufficient. After the tree is set out, partic- 

 ularly if done in the autumn, the earth should be pressed down 

 around it gently, and the tree surrounded, to a height of twelve 

 or fifteen inches, with a conical mound of earth. The mound 

 serves better than stakes to support the tree, and is also a pro- 

 tection against the frost. The earth should remain until the 

 tree gets firmly rooted, when it may be levelled down. It is 

 always injurious to leave the earth in the autumn so as to form 

 a basin around the trunk of the tree for the water to collect in 

 and freeze. Trees are very frequently winter-killed by being so 

 left. 



There seems to be a diversity of opinion among pear growers, 

 as to the best season of the year for transplanting pear trees. 

 Some prefer the autumn, while many prefer the spring. Down- 

 ing prefers the autumn for light and loose soils, and the spring 

 for heavier land. His view is, that trees set out in the fall, get 

 rooted before winter, and are some weeks more forward in the 



