FISHES. 373 



The flesh of any fish is a] ways in the highest perfection, or 

 in season as it iscalled, during theperiodof theripeningof the 

 milt and the roe. After the fish has deposited the spawn, 

 the flesh becomes soft, and loses a great deal of its peculiar 

 flavour. This is owing to the disappearance of the oil or fat 

 from the flesh, it having been expended in the function of 

 reproduction *. When in season, the thick muscular part 

 of the back, as it contains the smallest quantity of oil, is in- 

 ferior in flavour, or richness, to the thinner parts about the 

 belly, which are esteemed by epicures as the most savoury 

 morsels. 



There are some kinds of fishes, especially those which in- 

 habit the shores of warmer countries, which are reputed 

 poisonous. These are, the Tetraodon ocellat'us, sceleratus 

 and lineatus, the Spar us pagurus, and a few more. It is 

 generally supposed, and with some probability, that the poi- 

 sonous quality of these fish proceeds from the food on which 

 they have subsisted. This conjecture is supported by the 

 history of the mussel and the oyster, which owe their occa- 

 sional noxious qualities to the zoophytes on which they feed. 

 In some cases, the poisonous portion is the liver ; in others 

 the whole body, when used after spawning. Perhaps the 

 poisonous quality of these fishes might be considerably di- 

 minished, if not entirely removed, were the intestines care- 

 fully taken away, and the fish placed for a short time m 

 salt-brine *. 



The superiority of deep-sea herrings over those caught near the shore 

 and in bays, arises from this circumstance, The former are fat, while the 

 latter have either recently spawned, or are nearly ready for spawning, and* 

 consequently, lean. 



f Phil. Trans. 1776, p. 514 



