" GREENING OYSTEES. 257 



in this smooth surface, hardened by the rays of the sun, 

 nothing may obstruct the free development of the edible 

 mollusc which is there to be reared. In September, 

 men, women, and children are all busy collecting the 

 oysters to be deposited within them ; and it is a curious 

 fact that only the young oysters taken from this locality 

 can be made to acquire the good qualities resulting 

 from the process of greening. Old ones, or those from 

 other places, acquire the greenness ; but a knowing 

 palate detects in them a certain bitterness. Hence the 

 rearers who seek to please their customers are very 

 careful only to admit young " natives " into their re- 

 servoirs. An oyster deposited in the " claires," at the 

 age of from six to eight months, must remain there for 

 two years before attaining the proper size ; and three 

 or even four years are requisite in order to reach the 

 perfection of Marennes oysterhood. A long delay this, 

 no doubt, but abundantly rewarded, it appears, seeing 

 that the beds of Marennes furnish annually five millions 

 of oysters, valued at 83,334. As is not uncommon 

 elsewhere, the laborious task of disposing of the oysters 

 in the neighbouring towns falls to the women, whose 

 acquaintance with city life gives them assurance and a 

 knowledge of the fashions, which is exhibited on Sun- 

 days with such a transmogrifying effect that, in damsels 

 of flexible shape, coquettish air, and easy walk, it is 

 not easy to recognise the fishwives whom yesterday we 

 met in the town, selling oysters before our hotel, or at 

 the corner of the streets. 



In Scotland oysters are nowhere subjected to the 

 treatment called " greening," by which their flavour and 

 tenderness are greatly improved. The cause of the 

 viridity of the oyster is disputed, some ascribing it to an 

 insect, others to disease of the liver, and others to the 

 nature of the soil in the "pares" or " claires" in which 

 they are deposited. The analyses of M. Berthelot and 

 others favour the last supposition, and seem to prove 

 that the greening property is due to a slight excess in 



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