230 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [MARCH 



feet is a more eligible distance, especially for some sorts of free-shoot- 

 ing pears; though it appears considerable at first, yet if grafted, &c., 

 upon free stocks, they will readily fill that space, and bear consider- 

 ably better than if confined so as to require to be often shortened to 

 continue them within bounds; however, generally allow those on 

 dwarf stocks not less than fifteen feet, the others eighteen or twenty 

 feet distant. 



Plums and cherries designed for walls and espaliers should be 

 planted from fifteen to eighteen or twenty feet distance. 



The above distances advised in planting the different sorts of wall 

 and espalier trees, appear great when the trees are first planted ; but 

 in a few years the advantage of allowing them proper room will be 

 manifest; and it should be observed to allow trees planted against 

 low walls a greater distance than for higher, in order that in default 

 of height, there may be proper scope to extend them horizontally. 



For the particular soil and situation proper for the different kinds, 

 see the Fruit Garden in October and November; and also the Orchard 

 in this month. 



Having the ground previously well prepared, open a wide hole for 

 every tree about a spade deep, or according to the size of the root, 

 and loosen the bottom well. Then prune the roots of the tree, that 

 is, cut off bruised or broken parts, and trim the ends a little of all 

 the very long straggling roots in general, prune out irregular shoots 

 of the head, then place the tree in the hole, break the earth well and 

 throw it in equally about the roots, and when all is in tread the sur- 

 face gently round the tree. 



New planted fruit-trees should be well secured from the violence 

 of the wind ; if they are all standards in exposed situations, let them 

 be supported with stakes, and if wall trees, &c., with large heads, 

 planted against walls and espaliers, fasten their main branches 

 thereto. 



Jftji*' As the seasons for planting out fruit and other trees differ so 

 much in the climates of the United States, and even in the same 

 place in different seasons, the only sure guide is to plant all kinds of 

 trees as soon as their buds begin to swell, or rather a little before. 







GOOSEBERRIES AND CURRANTS. 



Prune gooseberry and currant bushes, where they are not yet done ; 

 but let this work be finished the beginning of the month. 



Keep the branches thin and the middle of the trees open and clear 

 of wood, so as to admit the sun and air freely, by which means the 

 fruit will be large and well tasted. Observe the rules exhibited in 

 January, page 43, February, page 146, and also in October. 



From the beginning to the middle of this month, is a good time 

 to plant gooseberry or currant-trees ; the former particularly require 

 rich ground, plenty of manure, frequent culture about the plants, 

 and to be kept on one stem. The best form for a well trained stand- 

 ard gooseberry, or currant, is that of a wineglass ; if you expect good 

 fruit, you must be particular to keep them free from suckers. 



Manure and dig the ground between the gooseberry and currant 



