276 THE NURSERY. [MARCH 



in : both may be propagated abundantly from seeds, which do not 

 vegetate till the second spring after ripening, consequently they must 

 be prepared as directed for haws, and when sown, should not be 

 covered more than a quarter of an inch deep ; they may remain in 

 the seed-bed for two years, if not too thick, and then planted into 

 nursery-rows ; or the largest may be taken up when a year old, and 

 planted therein, provided that they have grown freely. The juniper 

 may be raised by cuttings, planted in a shady border towards the 

 latter end of this month. 



YEW AND PRIVET HEDGES. 



Yew and privet make neat garden hedges ; they are botfy raised 

 from seeds and cuttings, the latter planted in March, and the seeds 

 of each are to be treated as directed for haws, not vegetating the first 

 spring after ripening. 



PYRACANTHA OR EVERGREEN-THORN HEDGES. 



The Mespilis Pyracantha, or evergreen thorn, will make a tole- 

 rably good hedge ; it is propagated by seed, which will not vegetate 

 till the second spring after ripening, and must be treated accordingly. 



ROSE AND SWEETBRIER HEDGES. 



Wild roses and sweetbrier are sometimes used for hedges, and may 

 either be propagated by suckers, layers, or seeds. The best way to 

 cultivate them for hedges is by seed, which must be gathered in au- 

 tumn when ripe, and preserved as directed for haws, till the spring 

 following twelve months, and then sown. 



ELDER, WILLOW, AND ALDER HEDGES. 



The elder-tree is sometimes used for hedges, especially when a 

 fence is wanted as soon as possible, being of a more speedy growth 

 than any other kind commonly used for that purpose, though not the 

 most effectual nor beautiful. However, an immediate fence may be 

 made of it, by planting large truncheons or cuttings of the straight- 

 est upright shoots and branches, from two or three to six feet long, 

 planted either upright, a foot asunder, and wattled along the top to 

 preserve them firm and even ; or by planting them slanting across 

 one another, checkerwise, forming a sort of lattice-work, which is the 

 most effectual method. In either way of planting, do not point and 

 drive them in, as is commonly done, but make holes for their recep- 

 tion, twelve or fifteen inches deep, with a crowbar, then insert their 

 ends, and make the earth fast about them : when driven down by 

 force, the bark is frequently stripped, which in a great measure pre- 

 vents their rooting freely, and pushing as vigorously as if carefully 

 planted. 



Various kinds of willow are found extremely useful to plant along 

 the sides of watery ditches, brooks, rivulets or any marshy and moist 

 situations; and may be propagated by planting small cuttings, or 



