JUNE] THE ORCHARD. 429 



happen to be peculiarly favorable, I would advise them to be planted 

 for the present in nursery beds, in a shady border, as before observed, 

 taking good care to water them frequently till well rooted. 



You may, however, any time this month, plant out some of the 

 young runner-plants of the Alpine or prolific strawberry, and if 

 shaded and watered till they have taken fresh root, they will soon 

 bear fruit on the present plants, and in August and September, on 

 the runners produced in the intermediate time. The seeds of these 

 latter kinds, if sown in March, are particularly productive; these will 

 commence bearing in the September following, and continue on until 

 destroyed by frost, or if placed in the green-house, all the winter. 



THE ORCHARD. 



At this time there is very little to be done in the orchard, but a 

 repetition of what was recommended on page 402, to which I refer 

 you. 



It would be very proper, when you observe many of your young 

 fruit punctured by insects, and consequently in a declining state, 

 gently to shake the trees, and pick and carry away to the pigs such 

 as fall to the ground, for the reasons assigned on page 151, &c., 

 which see. 



PRUNING. 



Dr. Lindley, in his new edition of the Theory of Horticulture , has 

 given some directions regarding pruning and trimming, which it is 

 well to remember, and it is therefore here inserted. His views on 

 this subject have become authority with many. They will not be 

 unprofitable studies at all times. 



THE PEAR-TREE. 



This tree bears its fruit on wood more than one year old, but 

 chiefly on spurs, and very rarely on two-year branches. The object 

 of the pruner is to secure spurs by stopping branches and arresting 

 luxuriance, at the same time maintaining the plant in perfect health. 



There is no difficulty in obtaining the requisite number of branches, 

 at proper distances, by observing the following directions : Plant a 

 maiden tree in autumn ; allow it to establish itself for one year, and 

 then head it back to a good eye, a few buds from its base. Let one 

 shoot grow as strong and upright as possible during the summer, and 

 head it back to within thirteen inches of the ground in autumn, cut- 

 ting very close to a bud, in order that the shoot springing from it 

 may form little or no bending; train it upright, whilst three or four 

 shoots, from buds immediately below it, should be more or less in- 

 clined to horizontal direction, according to their strength; the strongest 



