PRUNING AND TRAINING. 117 



or even four feet ; next commence at the top, leave three 

 eyes, the upper one for the future leader, and the two 

 others for the top pair of branches ; cut out the next two, 

 leave the two beneath, and continue on so to within 

 eighteen inches of the soil, below which remove all to the 

 bottom, as there is no use in having any fruit lower down. 

 During the next summer these eyes will, if well attended 

 to, form side spurs, which in their turn will have to be cut 

 back to two, three, or even four buds, as they may be 

 plump, or well developed. Now, when these buds begin 

 to grow, we ought to have a shoot from each of them, and 

 as only one bunch ought to be allowed to remain on each 

 base, the other shoots will appear so far superfluous. Re- 

 tain the one at the base, or nearest to the main cane, and 

 likewise that one above it which shows the best bunch ; 

 rub off the others, and pinch out the fruit from the lower, 

 and also all, excepting the best formed bunch on the upper 

 one. As they progress in growth, take out the top of that 

 which has fruit on, three or four leaves above the bunch, 

 and let the other extend until it has unfolded seven or 

 eight leaves ; then stop it. Bring the bearing branches 

 down, nearly horizontal, to the upright cane, and tie them 

 to the side-wires ; train the others at an oblique angle, and 

 tie them likewise. They will now appear as seen in Fig. 

 16. a is the base shoot, and b the fruiting one. As both 

 continue to push forth fresh growth from Fig. ie. 



time to time through the summer, nip out 

 to one leaf above where last stopped- 

 After the fruit is cut, and the wood be- 

 comes ripe, say two or three weeks before 

 the leaves fall, go over and cut (b) clean 

 away to the base of (a), which leaves the 

 spurs for fruiting the next year as near to 

 the main cane as if the close cut method 



