TIFLIS. 273 



idea may be formed of the charms of this region. 

 On the other hand the Georgian table -land, upon 

 which one enters after crossing the Suram mountains 

 the high road to Tiflis following closely the course 

 of the Kur - - has no particular beauty; it is stony, 

 often rent by chasms, and poor in vegetation. Still 

 one is reconciled to the sterile environment through 



o 



the ever -recurring view of the snowy peaks of the 

 great Caucasus, which already from the sea afford a 

 glorious spectacle. 



Tiflis, traversed by the river Kur in its deep-cut 

 bed, leans to the north against a precipitous mountain- 

 wall, which is doubtless the main cause of the in- 

 supportable heat felt in the town during summer. 

 Hence every inhabitant of Tiflis, who can at all afford 

 it, possesses for the hot season a second dwelling placed 

 some thousand feet higher , which he only quits to 

 attend to business affairs in the town. Properly 

 speaking Tiflis is composed of two entirely distinct 

 towns, the upper European, and the lower Asiatic, 

 town, divided from each other by well-defined boun- 

 daries. The European Tiflis delights to style itself 

 proudly "The Paris of Asia", or at least claims this 

 title of honour immediately after Calcutta. It has in- 

 deed a thoroughly European appearance, being mainly 

 inhabited by Russians and western Europeans. In this 

 part are situated the imperial residence, the theatre, 

 and all the government buildings. The adjoining town 



O O J O 



on the other hand is in appearance and population 

 purely Asiatic. The reason why Tiflis in very early times 



18 



