318 THIRD JOURNEY TO THE CAUCASUS. 



above Kalakent itself to the summit of the mountain 

 enclosing the large Goktsha lake. From the summit of the 

 pass the immense lake is seen in the foreground, whilst the 

 chains of the Armenian highlands form the background 

 of the splendid panorama. My travelling companions, 

 who had not shrunk from the severe ride necessary 

 to reach this commanding eminence, had the good 

 fortune to enjoy a perfectly clear prospect, the snow- 

 caps of the great and little Ararat standing out with 

 perfect distinctness. 



After brother Charles and I had had our full 

 delight in the great progress which our remote pos- 

 session had made in the last years, and our com- 

 panions had exhausted the charms of the surrounding 

 forest-clad hills in extensive rides, we continued our 

 journey to Baku, to pay a visit to the ancient sacred 

 perpetual fires, and to make acquaintance with the 

 sources of the modern fire-bringer, donor at any rate 

 of far greater blessings, petroleum. We had quite 

 special reasons for so doing, since it was owing to 

 naphtha, the mother of petroleum, that we found 

 Kedabeg in brisk and hopeful activity. 



The route lay by way of Elisabethpol, the govern- 

 ment town of Kedabeg, in the neighbourhood of which 

 is situated Helenendorf, the largest of the Suabian 

 settlements. When the worthy Suabians heard of our 

 presence in Kedabeg, they sent their mayor with an 

 invitation to us, to visit Helenendorf likewise. We of 

 course accepted it, and on our arrival in Elisabethpol 

 were received by a deputation of the peasants, and 



